Puppy socialization

Providing appropriate socialization is a critical part of raising your puppy to be a well-adjusted adult dog, one who welcomes guests into the home, walks calmly and confidently in public, and can travel with the family. It is the process of introducing your puppy to the wider world, to help prevent fear and aggression later in life. It is also the process of teaching your puppy how to behave out there, to help prevent lunging and barking and over-excitement around other dogs, skateboards, scooters, etc.

The critical socialization period begins at 3 weeks old and ends between 12 and 16 weeks old. That means that the process of safe, controlled socialization should already be started by the breeder or rescue you get your puppy from.

Wait, shouldn’t I wait to take my puppy out of the house until they have all their vaccinations done? What if my puppy gets sick?

In a word: no! A puppy who is sequestered indoors is significantly more likely to have problems with fear and aggression later in life. Here are several resources on why socialization is so important.

The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior's Position Statement on Puppy Socialization (PDF):

“The Primary and most important time for puppy socialization is the first three months of life. During this time puppies should be exposed to as many new people, animals, stimuli and environments as can be achieved safely and without causing over- stimulation manifested as excessive fear, withdrawal or avoidance behavior. For this reason, the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior believes that it should be the standard of care for puppies to receive such socialization before they are fully vaccinated.

Because the first three months are the period when sociability outweighs fear, this is the primary window of opportunity for puppies to adapt to new people, animals, and experiences. Incomplete or improper socialization during this important time can increase the risk of behavioral problems later in life including fear, avoidance, and/or aggression. Behavioral problems are the greatest threat to the owner-dog bond. In fact, behavioral problems are the number one cause of relinquishment to shelters. Behavioral issues, not infectious diseases, are the number one cause of death for dogs under three years of age.”

Puppy Vaccination and Early Socialization Should Go Together (PDF)

“Experience and epidemiologic data support the relative safety and lack of transmission of disease in these puppy socialization classes over the past 10 years in many parts of the United States. In fact; the risk of a dog dying because of infection with distemper or parvo virus disease is far less than the much higher risk of a dog dying (euthanasia) because of a behavior problem. Many veterinarians are now offering new puppy owners, puppy socialization classes in their hospitals or nearby training facilities with assistance of trainers and behaviorists. This emphasizes the importance of early socialization and training as important parts of a wellness plan for every puppy. We need to recognize that this special sensitive period for learning is the best opportunity we have to influence behavior for dogs and the most important and longest lasting part of a total wellness plan.”

2013 Study: Frequency of Parvovirus in Vaccinated Puppies that Attended Puppy Socialization Classes

“Socialization is one method of preventing behavior problems in dogs; however, some oppose socialization before 16 wk of age due to the risk of contracting infectious diseases. The objectives of this study were to determine if puppies that attended puppy socialization classes and were vaccinated by a veterinarian at least once were at an increased risk of confirmed canine parvovirus (CPV) infection compared with puppies that did not attend classes... Results indicated that vaccinated puppies attending socialization classes were at no greater risk of CPV infection than vaccinated puppies that did not attend those classes.”

Why you should take your urban puppy to socials after just one set of shots

“While not a perfect analogy, a puppy’s openness to learning socials skills is similar to the way young children learn new languages effortlessly. Studies have shown that children younger than seven years old easily pick up new languages because their brains are wired to readily incorporate the words, grammar and structure of multiple languages. Like the puppy socialization period that ends at 12 weeks, this window closes for children around seven years old, after which language acquisition becomes far more difficult. You can place a 6-year old child in a Mandarin immersion class for a year and she will come out fluent in the language but if I were to attend the same class, I would likely still be struggling with the basics.”

Early Puppy Socialization Classes: Weighing the risks vs. benefits

“Given the fact that behavior problems are the No. 1 cause of relinquishment to shelters, along with the fact that 56% of dogs that enter shelters in the United States are euthanized, and that puppy classes help prevent behavior problems and increase the likelihood of retention in the home, there must be evidence of phenomenal risk of infectious disease transmission associated with early socialization classes to warrant holding puppies back. And there is no such evidence to date. In fact, renowned behaviorist Dr. R. K. Anderson, a longtime advocate for early socialization, has more than a decade of experience and data supporting the relative safety and lack of disease transmission in puppy socialization classes in many parts of the United States.

It's unfortunate that the behavioral gains from puppy class are under such tight age constraints. The most sound advice we [veterinarians] can give clients is to acknowledge the small risk of infectious disease transmission and recommend well-run puppy socialization classes on the grounds that the relative risk is so low. Puppies, owners, and society stand to benefit enormously at the cost of a relatively small risk of exposure to a treatable infection.”

Puppy Vaccinations: Why Puppies Need a Series of Shots

“Our current vaccines are excellent at stimulating immunity in older puppies in just one or two shots. However, puppies who nursed on their mother’s milk have maternal antibodies in their blood that block the immune system from responding to these vaccines. These circulating maternal antibodies protect them from bacterial and viral assault while the puppy’s immune system is maturing. But they also prevent the puppy’s immune system from becoming activated by vaccines.”

Okay, I’m sold. Now how do I do it?

I recommend starting with these articles written by other trainers:

Puppy Socialization… What Actually Is It??

“The definition I like for puppy socialization is “the process of teaching a puppy to live and behave in the situations it will encounter throughout its life.”... All in all, socialization is a very personal process. You are not just shaping your dog to live in the human world, you are shaping him to live in YOUR world. It’s important to me that my dogs are confident and comfortable in sport situations as I do have many competition goals for them, but I live with them too so it’s equally (or more, sometimes) important that they can settle in the house, be polite on a hiking trail, and work as demo or decoy dogs for my clients. What are your goals for your dog, and what type of dog do you want to build?”

Socialization is More Than Mere Exposure - AVSAB

“You should set up social experiences in graded steps that reflect your puppy’s personality and behavior. If you notice that your puppy seems timid or fearful in new situations, you should move more slowly and deliberately in terms of the intensity of exposure than you would if your puppy is always jolly and exuberant. Pay attention to your puppy’s approach versus retreat behavior and other body language indicators.”

Overzealous Greetings (and Other Tales of Toddlers and Puppies)

“responsible dog owners can teach their charges to be polite around other dogs. Socializing your dog appropriately helps him grow into a model citizen of canine society.

So, how do I guide my foster dogs through appropriate interactions? First of all, I focus on teaching them to greet other dogs calmly. If puppies squeal and lunge in excitement every time they see a new dog, they grow into adult dogs who rush up to other dogs or react explosively on leash at the sight of each new dog. This isn’t a healthy social reaction, and preventing this behavior from developing is much easier and faster than fixing it once it’s become a habit.”

Keeping, Raising and Showing Littermates

“One should only keep multiple puppies if they truly have the time to give each puppy what they need in terms of training, medical care, socialization, grooming, etc. If you can’t or if you aren’t sure if you can, you should probably not take on more than one. If you do decide to keep multiple puppies, here are some things to consider and tips that may help you bring them up successfully.”

I also like this PDF from Operation Socialization and this graphic by Sara Reusche and Lili Chin.

Need a cheat sheet? Here are the bullet points.

• Invite people over to your house to play with the pup. Make sure that they wash their hands and haven’t just been petting unknown dogs.

• Take your puppy over to visit other people’s houses. Make sure to bring supplies to clean up potty accidents, just in case.

• Take your puppy out and about in a sling, pack, stroller, or just carrying them to keep them up off the ground. Walk around the neighborhood, shopping areas, and into pet-friendly stores.

  • Most home improvement stores (eg Home Depot, Lowe’s, Ace) welcome dogs. JoAnn is officially pet-friendly in all their locations. Many other stores will allow you to carry in small puppies if you ask.

• Bring your pup on errands in the car. While one person takes care of business, the other can sit with the pup and look out the window, or have the puppy in your lap with the car door open. (See information about puppy carsickness here.)

• Hang out at the park or beach with your pup on a large blanket, using a leash or pen to keep them close by.

• If you want your puppy to be comfortable with particular activities when they’re grown up, starting introducing those things now. For example, start teaching your puppy to swim, or introduce him to livestock, or get started on grooming training.

• Arrange play dates with other friendly, healthy, vaccinated dogs who haven’t recently been to the dog park.

• Attend puppy classes - see below for how to pick a good puppy class.

• Make sure that anyone interacting with your puppy - especially kids - pets gently, plays appropriately, and allows the puppy to move away if they want to. (See resources for kids and dogs here.)

• Make sure that your puppy is having a good time. Things to look for:

  • Wagging tail

  • Happy to explore and sniff around

  • Willingness to play and eat treats

  • Able to respond to trained cues

• If your puppy gets overwhelmed (hiding, tucked tail, sitting very still and not engaging), let him retreat to safety and reassure him. Give him time to recover and be ready to explore again.

• If your puppy is regressing in their socialization, or showing sudden fear toward specific things, they may be in a fear period. Follow the suggestions in this article or consult with a professional trainer who uses positive methods to help you provide desensitization and counter-conditioning.

How to pick a puppy class

Not all training classes are created equal. You want to make sure that:

• The facility is cleaned with appropriate products (such as KennelSol) to reduce possible transmission of pathogens.

• Puppies are required to be up to date on vaccinations per their veterinarian’s advice, and proof is provided to the trainer.

• Only positive training methods are used. (E.g., no collar corrections on choke chains or prong collars, no swatting puppies for mouthing, no grabbing by the scruff or pinning down to punish. Instead, puppies are guided to choose desirable behaviors and rewarded with treats, play, and petting, while undesirable behaviors are prevented or redirected.)

• Puppies that are over-excited - barking, pouncing, pulling on leash - are given help to calm down via decreasing visibility, moving them farther away, providing chews or enrichment items, and/or rewarding appropriate behaviors.

• Playtime is not a “free for all” between all of the puppies. Not all pups can play together nicely - different sizes and levels of energy and confidence can easily lead to bullying if not carefully monitored. Pens and leashes are used to help shier and smaller puppies have a good socialization experience.

• Breaks are given during playtime to help moderate arousal levels and help puppies learn to listen around distractions.

• All of the puppy owners are helping teach manners by giving attention to puppies with “four on the floor,” not allowing them to snatch treats, and breaking up play as needed to redirect inappropriate behavior or provide breaks.

Teaching a dog to swim

Many of my clients have pools and would like to teach their dogs to swim, for both safety and exercise. Not all dogs are natural swimmers, though, and some are downright terrified of being submerged. Let’s break this down into smaller steps, to help our dogs gain confidence and make positive associations with first playing, and then swimming, in water.

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• Start with a baby pool, like the classic blue plastic ones, or an appropriately-sized dog pool.

  • Make sure your dog is comfortable getting in and out of it while it’s dry - for tiny dogs, you can create steps or ramps (see photo), or cut the side down for them (credit to Emily Larlham/KikoPup for the idea, shown here).

  • Your dog may need a non-slip surface placed into the pool to feel more confident. You can use nonslip bathtub mats, rubber drainage mats, or a small rug.

  • Do training sessions in which you encourage your dog to get in and out of the pool, using toys and treats to make it fun. Over time, slowly increase the amount of water in the pool.

  • Make sure to play on hotter days, so the water feels cool and comfortable for your dog.

• Here’s a brilliant game that one of my clients came up with: setting bowls with treats on the surface of the water. They’ll gently float around as your dog gets into and moves through the water, challenging him to wade around more.

• Another game that may help is playing “keep away” with a stream of water from a hose (credit to Emily Larlham/KikoPup for the idea, shown here).

• When you are transitioning from the baby pool to your full-sized one, make sure that your pool steps are appropriately sized. For smaller dogs, you may need to create more steps by submerging bricks or pavers. Alternatively, you can purchase or create a pool ramp. The shallower the entry point, the easier it will be for your dog to feel comfortable venturing farther in.

  • If you can locate a dog-friendly beach, stream, or lake with a shallow entry point, that will also give your dog a valuable opportunity to play and practice being in water.

• Get into the water with your dog and encourage him to join you. Use his favorite toys and treats along with lots of happy talk.

  • Always let the dog choose whether he wants to get in, and when he wants to leave. Never toss a dog in or prevent him from exiting the water.

  • As he gains confidence, just encourage him to go farther and farther in, and incorporate as much play as your dog wants.

• Consider getting a life jacket, especially for stocky/heavy breeds, dogs with short legs, and those with short muzzles (brachycephalic). Dogs who can’t seem to balance properly, and end up flailing with their front legs while their back legs sink, also benefit from life vests.

• If your dog is social, meet up with others who have water-loving dogs, to model the behavior you want.

A few other safety considerations:

• Consider fencing your pool until your dog is able to swim well enough that he can exit the pool from every spot. (Consider keeping that fencing up even after, just in case, especially if you have children.)

• Always have fresh water available near the pool, so that your dog has the option to drink that instead of chemical-laden pool water (or bacteria-laden stream/lake water).

• Beware of water intoxication, when a dog has ingested dangerous levels of water. (This is more likely to happen when a dog is grabbing toys in water or catching water from a hose than from calm swimming with their mouth closed.)

• Beware of toxic blue-green algae (cyanobacteria) in natural bodies of water.

• Watch out for sunburn, especially for dogs with short, sparse fur and light-colored skin pigment.

Dog Parks

Dog parks sound like a great idea - a place for dogs to play and hang out, off leash, with their kin. For many dogs, they can be a great outlet for their energy and a place to make friends. Some dogs even start out shy, but blossom over time.

However things don’t always go smoothly. Sometimes what starts out as play - such as taking a fast lap around with one play partner - can turn scary if multiple dogs join in and end up chasing or piling onto a single dog. Sometimes a dog who is playful but doesn’t know when to back off will bully another dog into hiding under a table or chair and not let it escape. Fights can break out if someone gets bitten too hard or is guarding their owner or toy. Play that is too high in intensity can “tip” into aggression (when dogs get too worked up, one party is no longer having fun, and suddenly teeth are flashing). These things can lead to a dog becoming less comfortable with other dogs, and therefore overly defensive or even aggressive. In worst case scenarios, dogs end up needing stitches or even dying. (A quick Google search for “dog park” plus words like “horror,” “trauma,” “tragedy,” “death,” etc will bring up plenty of examples.) (By the way, I’ve also heard anecdotes in which the dogs were fine, but it’s the other owners who are aggressive!)

So how can you protect your dog and help him practice good social skills at the dog park?

First, know your own dog, especially rescues

Taking a brand-new rescue dog into a dog park and letting it off leash can be a dangerous proposition. You should first have an idea of your dog’s social skills and interest level in socializing.

• Ask for as much history of your dog’s previous social experiences as you can get. Was the dog fostered or kenneled with other dogs? Did the shelter or rescue group do any socializing?

• Take your dog for several walks and watch how he reacts to the sight of other walkers. If everyone looks calm and interested, you can ask the other owners if it’s okay to do a quick meet and greet.

• Ask neighbors, friends, and family with calm, well-behaved dogs if they can meet. (Article on introducing dogs safely is in the queue.)

• Some trainers (including myself) can provide an assessment by doing careful introductions to pre-selected dogs.

• Many daycares and boarding businesses will do a free assessment of your dog’s social skills as a requirement for services.

If you’ve raised your dog since puppyhood or you’ve already taken the above steps for your rescue dog, then next consider the following:

• Does your dog actually want to hang out with other dogs, beyond the initial butt sniffing?

• Is your dog intimidated by larger dogs, or overly pushy with smaller or younger ones?

• Is your dog easily riled up if there’s a lot of activity?

• Does your dog get very upset if he’s humped, sniffed intently, someone barks in his face, or nips his legs or flanks?

• Would you be able to keep your dog away from another that’s looking scared or unfriendly?

• What type of play does your dog like - running, jumping up and climbing all over other dogs, biting faces/necks, hip checks, rolling over and playing “submissive”?

Going into the park

• Watch the other dogs before you go in. The answers to these questions will guide you in deciding whether you should actually take your dog inside. Sometimes, you may see things that concern you or you know your dog won’t respond well to. If that’s the case, turn around and take your dog for a leash walk instead, or drive to a different park.

  • How many other dogs are there? More dogs = more likely to have ganging up.

  • What’s the energy level of the group? Are they riled up? Are they all looking bored and likely to jump up and come mob your dog? Or is there already polite mingling happening, that your dog could easily slip into?

  • What type of play is happening (if any), and is it a type that your dog enjoys, tolerates, or takes offense to?

  • Is there one dog that’s circling the other players, then jumping in to take potshots?

  • Is there a dog who is acting unfriendly or very scared?

  • Is there a dog who is obsessively humping others?

  • Are there toys out that your dog is going to guard aggressively?

• Big vs small dogs

  • Some parks have separate areas for big vs small dogs, which is generally safer. Be careful bringing your small dog into a mixed size park - it’s much easier for them to get bullied, knocked over, or even treated as prey.

  • If you have a big dog, be respectful of the small dog area - those little guys might be genuinely scared of yours.

  • Extreme caution should be taken if you have a dog with predatory drive. As a personal anecdote, I once had my Irish Wolfhound (a large sighthound, who are bred to chase and catch prey) stretching her legs at a dog park during travel, and someone started to approach with a smaller dog who was squealing in a high pitch on their way in. My hound perked her ears and tensed, and I immediately put her on leash and turned to leave the park. She has never shown any predatory behavior toward other dogs, even toy-sized breeds, but why take the chances when the consequences could be dire? (Fortunately once the other dog was let off leash and stopped squealing, plus Terra had walked past and saw that it was actually a dog and not a prey animal, she relaxed again. Good girl.)

• Walk around the park perimeter first

  • This is especially useful if your dog is nervous about greetings, and to avoid mobbing at the gate.

  • Let the dogs sniff through the fence. Just redirect to a calmer behavior if your dog starts to get over-excited and is barking or jumping on the fence. Encourage him to move along.

• At the gate

  • As above, let the dogs get some initial sniffs done at the gate before you open, to reduce mobbing.

• Once inside the park

  • Walk around instead of sitting in one spot. This keeps the dogs moving, which helps reduce the intensity of play (and therefore incidents of play “tipping” into aggression). It also encourages the dogs to pay more attention to their owners.

  • Practice calling your dog to you, leashing him up, throwing him a party, then letting him loose to play again. By making this a regular part of the dog park routine, your dog won’t play “keep away” when it’s time to really leave.

  • Monitor your dog’s body language and play behavior - see more info below.

Treats or no?

Some people frown on taking any treats into the park. It’s true that you might get unwanted attention from dogs that are very “foody,” and some dogs will guard food intensely. On the other hand, it’s an extremely useful tool for training your dog to respond to “come” and other cues around distractions - especially if you bring high value treats that your dog loves. Here’s how to decrease the likelihood of any problems:

• Make sure your treats are in a secure pouch or bag, with no chances of spilling out if a dog tries to stick their nose inside or jumps on you.

• When you are feeding your dog, do it away from everyone else. That may mean that you praise your dog for something good (like coming to you), then lead them away for several steps before slipping them a treat.

• Be careful not to drop your food on the ground. If you have butterfingers or your dog gets “sharky” when excited, try using a Bark Pouch or other food in a tube.

• If the other dogs are taking notice of your food, hold the pouch up high and out of their reach, such as under your armpit, or by your neck. (I don’t recommend holding it up and out in the air, as many dogs see this as an invitation to jump, as if for a toy.)

• Keep moving around the park, which will make other dogs lose interested in you more quickly, as well as decrease congregating - which makes guarding more likely.

• Don’t feed anyone else’s dog without permission. Besides encouraging begging behavior, this may be dangerous if that dog has severe allergies or digestive issues.

Monitoring dog play

Here are the basics you should know to keep everyone safe and happy.

• Dogs should be taking breaks, even if they are just brief pauses - such as the more assertive dog pausing for a second, and seeing his play partner happily re-engage by jumping back in. Play without any breaks is prone to escalating in intensity, which can lead to a dog biting too hard, feeling overwhelmed and defensive, or “tipping” into aggression.

  • If they’re not taking breaks, call your dog to you. You may have to ask the other owner to also call their own dog, to make it easier to interrupt play.

  • Walking around the park will also help lower intensity, as your dog takes pauses to check in on your location (hopefully!).

• Watch out for dogs getting cornered or trying to hide under tables/chairs and not being able to come out. This often happens when a dog wants a break, but their playmate(s) are not backing off. It’s also more likely when you have more than 2 dogs playing with each other.

• Many dogs like a good game of chase, but this game is likely to result in cornering, mobbing, or escalating intensity, so be ready to interrupt and give breaks as needed. It’s a good sign if you see the dogs take a break, and then the one who was being chased reinitiates the game themselves.

• Wrestling and pinning is a popular dog game but again, you want to monitor and be ready to give breaks. Look for the dog on the bottom to be intentionally rolling onto their side/back and inviting the play, rather than being slammed down. If the dog on top is not letting them up, biting without letting go, or pinning again as soon as the other dog tries to get up, then institute a break.

• Mismatches in play style will happen. Sometimes they are clearly based in genetics (for example, many herding and sighthound breeds like to play chase, while retrievers like to wrestle, and bully breeds tend to body slam). Other times, it’s due to individual quirks and preferences, or a positive or negative history with that play style. If it’s causing repeated conflict, the mismatched dogs should be kept apart, even leaving the dog park if necessary.

• Watch out for over-arousal during play, as this is often a precursor to “tipping,” as well as other unwanted behaviors. Signs of over-arousal include:

  • Play without breaks

  • Changes in pitch of vocalizations (either getting higher or lower than usual)

  • More frenzied movement

  • Not responding to cues as well as usual

  • Not stopping when the other dog wants a break

  • Humping - humping is a commonly misunderstood behavior. The most common cause for it in dog parks is that a dog wants to interact with another, is worked up, and has a dearth of prosocial skills - leading to things like incessant barking in the other dog’s face, jumping on top of them even when told off, or humping.

Breaking up a dog fight

It’s scary, but it’s bound to happen that sometimes dogs get pissed off at each other. The first thing to do is take a breath and assess: is this just a noisy scuffle with a lot of posturing and teeth bared, but the dogs aren’t really trying to hurt each other? This is much, much more common than a real fight in which the dogs are trying to take each other down. And if it’s just a noisy scuffle - an argument - then you don’t need to step in. It will be over within a few seconds. Help the dogs move away from each other and calm down as needed.

If your dog is repeatedly getting into scuffles, you should bring in a professional trainer to assess what is happening and whether he should be going to dog parks. (See below for alternatives.) Or if he’s getting into repeated scuffles with one specific dog, they should be kept separate from each other.

If your dog gets into a “real” fight, and injures another dog, you should carefully separate the dogs, exchange contact info with the other owner, then leave the park. Contact a professional trainer to discuss what happened and appropriate future socialization for your dog.

Here’s how to step in when needed:

• Keep your hands away from the bitey parts. I know this sounds obvious, but often the first instinct we have is to reach for dogs’ collars to gain control over them. This is a good way to get bitten on the hand. (Ask me how I know!)

• Try to interrupt the fight by placing a physical object between the dogs, if available.

• A blast from a hose will interrupt most fights.

• Otherwise, grab the dog from behind, by putting your hands where the rear legs meet the abdomen and pulling back and up.

• Beware of redirected bites - when a dog feels someone grab them and reacts without pausing to consider who/what that was. If you keep moving the dog backwards with their butt in the air - like a wheelbarrow - they cannot plant their front feet down and whip around to bite. Don’t let go until both dogs have been secured and seem aware of their surroundings rather than just reacting.

Alternatives to dog parks

What if you read the above information and realize that your dog is not a “dog park dog?” That’s okay! It’s normal for dogs to be selective about who they want to hang out with, rather than wanting to go into the mosh pit - especially as they mature out of puppyhood and adolescence. This is common among many species, including humans - as kids, we’ll often play with any other kids around, but later we become more choosy about who we want to spend time with.

Here are other options to explore:

• Smaller gatherings at unofficial off leash areas, especially if there’s a consistent group showing up rather than “strangers” every time.

• Going to the regular dog park during off peak hours, when there are only a few other dogs, at most, with plenty of space for each dog to do their own thing.

• One on one play dates with pre-selected dogs. These may be dogs that your dog liked when he did go to the dog park, or compatible dogs belonging to friends, family, or neighbors.

• Not socializing with other dogs, but giving your dog plenty of other forms of enrichment, exercise, and social time with humans. This can still be a fulfilling life.

Spaying and Neutering

Thanks to strong pressure to reduce the numbers of dogs looking for homes - and often ending up euthanized - in the US, it has become the norm to spay and neuter our pets. These procedures are often done at or before the age of 6 months, so that dogs do not reach reproductive age with gonads intact. But what are the side effects of removing our dogs’ normal reproductive hormones - often before puberty - along with those body parts? During the past 30 years, more and more researchers have been looking at the issue, and showing that it’s time to revise the blanket statement that all “responsible” dog owners get their pets spayed and neutered by 6 months old.

What does the science say?

Gonadectomy – Rethinking Long-Held Beliefs, by Chris Zink DVM PhD, DACVP, DACVSMR, CCRT, CVSMT, CVA (2018)

The article above neatly summarizes the results of nearly all of the relevant research on spaying and neutering as of 2018. It is a must-read for anyone seeking a quick introduction to the topic, with 52 sources for you to then dive into for a comprehensive look at the current science. It includes orthopedic considerations, rates of cancer, behavioral issues, and other health considerations (eg, urinary incontinence, hypothyroidism).

Spay and Neuter Surgery’s Effects on Dog Health, by David Lane, DVM (Nov 2018)

This is another article that summarizes much of the current research as of 2018 - just a different style and different format. It includes an easy-to-read table of pros and cons for spaying and neutering.

Neutering Causes Behavior Problems in Male Dogs: Neutered male dogs are more likely to show aggression and fear-related behavior, by Stanley Coren PhD., DSc, FRSC. (May 9, 2018)

“As in previous studies, the new data clearly shows that the positive behavioral effects that were expected from neutering did not occur, and if anything, the behaviors of neutered male dogs tended to be considerably less desirable. Of the 100 behaviors assessed, 40 showed statistically significant differences between the castrated and intact dogs. Only four of these behaviors showed a more positive outcome as a result of neutering...
The pattern of these results is quite clear: Neutering male dogs causes an increase in aggressive behavior, fearful behavior, over-excitability, and a variety of other miscellaneous, undesirable behaviors. What is also clear is that early neutering produces an even greater negative effect on behaviors.”

Behavioral and Physical Effects of Spaying and Neutering Domestic Dogs (Canis familiaris): Summary of findings detailed in a Masters thesis submitted to and accepted by Hunter College by Parvene Farhoody in May, 2010.

“The above data is just a small sample of the significant data that were determined in this study. By using large a sample of dogs than any used previously to examine behavior in dogs, we found significant correlations between neutering dogs and increases in aggression, fear and anxiety, and excitability, regardless of the age at which the dog was neutered. There were also significant correlations between neutering and decreases in trainability and responsiveness to cues. The other three behavioral categories examined (miscellaneous behavior problems, attachment and attention-seeking behavior, and separation-related behavior) showed some association with neutering, but these differed more substantially depending on the age at which the dog was neutered. The overall trend seen in all these behavioral data was that the earlier the dog was neutered, the more negative the effect on the behavior. A difference in bone length was found between neutered and intact dogs, suggesting that neutering has an effect on bone growth, which may be related to other orthopedic effects documented in the literature. Examination of changes in bone length of gonadectomized dogs is continuing.”

Prevalence and Risk Factors for Obesity in Adult Dogs from Private US Veterinary Practices (2006)

“Neutered males and spayed females (Figure 2) had the highest prevalence of overweight (32.0% and 32.6%) and obesity (5.5% and 5.6%); intact males had the lowest prevalence of overweight (20.0%) and obesity (3.6%)...
Intact dogs were underrepresented in the overweight and obese categories. The overweight/obesity risk for neutered dogs reported here is also consistent with other study results.2,18 Multiple studies have documented a link between spaying or neutering and decreased energy requirements. 19-23”

Visual impacts of pediatric spay/neuter

There is often a clear visual difference between dogs spayed/neutered before puberty versus well after (or not at all). Dogs neutered early will be taller due to longer leg bones, and with more narrow heads and rib cages. They do not “fill out” the way that a fully mature dog usually does. While aesthetics is a minor consideration compared to the health and behavioral findings above, this is a symptom of the differences in bone growth when sex hormones are removed early in development.

“Pictured are two littermates at 10 months of age: The puppy on the left was spayed at 5 months of age and the puppy on the right is intact. The puppy that was spayed prematurely has longer legs, a leaner build, and less developed skull. The intact puppy has a more proportionate build and his appearance is closer to breed standard.” From Valor K9 Academy.

The same female dog, pictured before and after her first heat cycle. Note the expansion of her rib cage and more developed head/jowls. From Two Gun Kennels.

Changes in coat

In addition, a minority of spayed/neutered dogs get what is colloquially called “spay coat” (this term often gets used for both males and females, but “neuter coat” can be used for males). This is a change in length and texture of their fur, which leads to a fluffy or “woolly” appearance. It may be that the undercoat is growing longer and thicker and/or the guard hairs are more sparse or soft. This change is associated with increased matting and therefore requires more grooming. Again, this is not a serious issue all by itself, but it does reflect the fact that “sex hormones” affect more than just the dog’s ability to reproduce.

Photo by Dr Shiri Hoshen

Photo by Dr Shiri Hoshen

So what should you do?

As stated by veterinarian Dr Benjamin Hart, “As we learn the consequences, I think we owe it to our clients to give them that information and the dignity of the decision. Let’s put it on the table and let them decide.”

There are real conveniences to having your dog spayed or neutered. The biggest is peace of mind regarding pregnancy, especially if you have a female dog. No one wants an “oops” litter and the responsibility of raising and rehoming pups they didn’t plan for! Also with females, no dealing with heat cycles, which can be messy and cause mood shifts. Neutered males are less likely to roam, urine mark, and harass sexy female dogs. It is easier to travel with a spayed/neutered dog, and much easier to find a place to board them if needed. City/county licensing fees are often much cheaper for neutered than for intact animals.

So most owners still want to neuter their pets; it’s just a question of when?

UC Davis has published recommendations on the timing of spay/neuter for 35 different breeds, as well as mixed breed dogs divided into 5 weight categories. These recommendations are based on occurrences of joint disorders, cancers, pyometra (in females), and urinary incontinence (in females). However some of the included breeds and the giant mixed breed weight category utilize low numbers (eg, 133 Shetland Sheepdogs, 94 Saint Bernards, 116 Collies, 258 giant mixed breeds) - so in my personal opinion, it’s questionable how much weight should be given to the affected recommendations. It is a good place to start, but it is far from a complete picture.

Note that for the included giant breed dogs - Great Danes, Irish Wolfhounds, Saint Bernard, and mixed breeds weighing 87+ lbs - they state variations of “given the large body size, and physiology of late musculoskeletal development, neutering well-beyond year 1 should be considered.”

Anecdotally, as orthopedic effects are the most visually obvious difference between dogs given pediatric neuters versus left intact, and the related joint concerns were the first ones to be widely raised and spread among the general pet owning populace, many owners are choosing to neuter after their dogs are fully grown and growth plates are closed. X-rays can confirm when an individual dog’s growth plates are closed, but rules of thumb are:

• Small dogs (<20 lbs): 6-8 months

• Medium dogs (21-50 lbs): 12 months

• Large dogs (51-100 lbs): 12-18 months

• X-Large dogs (100+ lbs): 24 months

Living with intact dogs

What if you decide that you’d rather keep your dog intact (not spayed/neutered), at least until they’re fully grown? What is it really like to live with an intact dog?

Intact females

Female dogs go into “heat” or “heat cycles” usually twice a year. (Giant breeds and some primitive breeds like Basenjis may cycle less frequently.) This is when their body is preparing to grow puppies and they are fertile. The first cycle can occur as young as 6 months for toy breeds to over 1 year of age for giant breeds. (If you got your pup from a good breeder, they will be able to tell you when females in their lines tend to first come into heat.)

You may notice that her vulva is swollen and that she is occasionally dripping a bloody discharge. (It often shows as little dots where she’s been lying or sitting.) Some females will lick themselves (and even your floor or furniture) clean, while others must wear “panties” or “britches” to keep the mess off your furniture. You may notice that your girl is moody or clingy during her cycle, but others don’t show any behavioral changes.

Your female should not be left outdoors unattended, as there are common stories of males hopping fences or digging under to find the source of the sexy smells. Do not take her to dog parks or other places that males may be off leash. Be careful even with neutered males, as they can still mate and tie, even if no pregnancy would result. (Height differences and inexperience can lead to injury during mating and while tied.)

Once the swelling and discharge have faded away, your female is no longer fertile and can go back to living life as normal. The entire cycle takes 2-4 weeks. If you are taking a training class, ask the instructor what their policy is. In sports classes, it’s common for females in heat to still attend as long as they wear panties.

Separately from dealing with heat cycles, intact girls are at higher risk of mammary cancer and pyometra (a serious infection of the uterus, often requiring an emergency spay).

Intact males

Males don’t cycle; they are continually fertile and ready for action. They are more likely to want to roam and show increased interested in females (sometimes even if the female is spayed). It is important with any dog, of course, that they not be allowed to roam free in the neighborhood.

Intact males are more likely to urine mark (frequently lift legs and pee small amounts), though this is common among neutered males, as well. Sometimes remedial potty training is needed if an adolescent male starts to urine mark in the house.

Anecdotally, many people report that neutered males will be quicker to aggress toward intact males when at dog parks.

Baseline Needs Before Training

I adapted this idea from Sarah Stremming’s “Four Steps to Behavioral Wellness.” These are baseline needs that we must meet for our dogs before we can expect training to have any significant effect on their behavior. Sometimes addressing these needs is in fact all you need to remove problematic behaviors.

Exercise

Ever heard the phrase “a tired dog is a good dog”? While physical exercise won’t solve anxiety issues like separation anxiety, it has a huge impact on nuisance behaviors like jumping and pulling and barking. Any time you are asking your dog to exhibit self control in exciting situations, you must also be providing an appropriate outlet for their energy - they can’t just tamp all of it down without it spilling over in other contexts. Here is an article with all kinds of ideas for providing your dog with physical exercise.

Enrichment

Enrichment refers to activities your dog can engage in that provide mental exercise and entertainment. This is particularly important for “busy” dogs who get into trouble when bored. This is just as important as physical exercise, especially if there are long periods of time that your dog is being asked to just chill at home. The best enrichment strategies for any particular dog are usually ones that enable him to express his natural “doggy” behaviors in an appropriate way. Here is an article with all kinds of ideas for providing your dog with mental enrichment.

Health

Improper diet, gastrointestinal inflammation and other metabolic diseases, joint pain, sprained muscles, and many other health problems can cause dogs to be irritable, aggressive, anxious, impulsive, or non-responsive to training/“stubborn.” There is even a study linking noise sensitivities with pain in dogs. Think about how hard it is to focus on work when you have a headache, or have patience with your toddler climbing all over you when you’re experiencing back pain, or drive safely when you’re exhausted. These are some of the areas we want to look at when it comes to making sure that our dogs are in good health:

• Pain: A comprehensive pain examination by your vet can bring injuries to light or rule them out. In some cases, an appointment with a specialist such as a neurologist may be warranted. You can also empower yourself to watch for injuries by watching (or even video taping) your dog’s walking and trotting gaits, doing gentle stretches, and teaching tricks that have your dog moving in a variety of ways. Watch for imbalances between left and right, changes in willingness to perform a trick, and other differences in movement. Don’t write off intermittent limps or skips in your dog’s steps. If pain is suspected but can’t be pinned down, ask your vet about trying a test course of pain medication. If your dog’s behavior improves on the meds and regresses when taken off, you know that you need to dig further. Furthermore, “If the first analgesia trial does not provide results, it is appropriate to try another type of analgesic with a different mechanism of action, in case the first was not right for that dog’s particular issue. Mills argues that the risk of side effects can be minimized and that the benefits of using pain medication will normally outweigh the risks.”

• X-rays: These may reveal arthritis, joint problems (such as hip dysplasia), or other hidden reasons for pain that causes irritability, aggression, or reluctance to perform certain behaviors.

• Blood work: A full chemistry profile and complete blood count (CBC) may reveal underlying health conditions that were not yet showing obvious symptoms to the owner, but were felt by the dog and affecting his behavior. For example, aggression is a known possible side effect of hypothyroidism, while decreased functionality of other organs may present as “stubbornness” or anxiety because the dog isn’t feeling well.

• Urinary analysis: Any sudden changes in potty training for an adult dog should be followed by a urinary analysis. Some puppies that are particularly difficult to potty train may have UTIs.

• Dental cleaning: Jaw and tooth pain may be difficult for a pet owner to diagnose, but be causing reluctance to eat or sensitivity to handling around the head/neck. Keep up with brushing your dog’s teeth and dental cleaning per your vet’s recommendations. Beware of anesthesia-free dental cleanings.

• Diet & GI health: Proper canine diets are a controversial subject. I personally have fed my own dogs everything ranging from premade raw food, homemade raw food, premade cooked and frozen food, to grain-free kibble as well as kibble containing grains like wheat. There is a lot of science that has been done on canine nutrition and foods , yet a LOT that still needs to be done. Personally, rather than obsessing over finding just the right foods, I choose to frequently switch up my dogs’ diets - allowing variety to hopefully make up for the deficiencies of any one type. By switching around, you may notice patterns such as your dog getting ear infections or itchy skin on ingredient X, or seemingly random bouts of diarrhea on food Y, or more impulsive behavior or irritability caused by inflammation with product Z.

• Sleep: If you’re staying home with busy kids or leaving your dog in the backyard during the day, he may be missing out on needed sleep. Just like humans, dogs benefit from having quiet, dark areas to nap in as needed, and will be cranky and unfocused if sleep deprived. This is especially important for puppies, who famously get “bitey” when overly tired. Puppies typically need 18-20 hours of sleep a day, while adults spend roughly 50% of the day in deep sleep and 30% awake but resting. (See this post on puppy schedules.)

• Anxiolytic Medication: For dogs with severe anxiety issues, anxiolytic meds are a game changer. Just like you wouldn’t withhold medication for pain or a liver problem because you expect the dog to “get over it,” providing medication for severe anxiety or aggression is the humane thing to do. Sometimes brains need just as much help as broken bones or infected scratches.

If you suspect that something is physically wrong but your vet cannot find an obvious cause during a physical examination, don’t give up! Sometimes it can take some digging (see this post and comments below for many examples), but there is evidence that “a conservative estimate of around a third of referred [behavior problem] cases involve some form of painful condition, and in some instances, the figure may be nearly 80%.”

Communication

Clear communication is definitely a prerequisite for training. Mixed signals - such as sometimes petting your dog when he puts his paws up, while other times yelling at him because you’re wearing your “nice” clothes - will confuse your dog and grind training progress to a halt. Some aspects of clear communication are:

• Consistency: All members of the household should follow the same rules and training procedures, unless there is a specific reason to alter them (for example, young kids may not be able to follow some of the more nuanced training procedures, so are given simplified directions). In addition, each person should make sure that they are consistent throughout the day.

• Clear cues: One word/phrase per behavior.

  • Don’t use the same word to mean different things (such as saying “down” when you want your dog to get off the couch and when you want him to lie down on the floor).

  • Don’t use multiple words to mean the same thing (such as “shake” and “gimme your paw” for the same action).

  • Keep your tone consistent (say “come” the same way every time, not sometimes high-pitched and happy and other times low and upset).

  • Don’t jerk on your dog’s leash when you want him to do something; many owners will jerk when they want their dog to sit, or to slow down, or to stop sniffing, or to look up. How is your dog to know which one you want? Give them a verbal cue or hand signal that has been trained for a specific behavior, instead.

• Reward markers: Use a clicker or other quick reward marker to let your dog know when they’ve done something good and earned a reward. I use a happy “yes!” when I want to use a verbal marker instead of a clicker. The reward marker should always be followed by a treat or other reward.

  • For more information on clicker training, check out Clicker Training 101: A Quick Beginner’s Guide and Frequently Asked Questions about Clicker Training.

• Communication goes both ways - in addition to being clear when cuing your dog, you should learn to read his body language so that you can understand what he is “saying” to you. Here are some resources on dog body language.

As we work together to train your dog using humane and effective positive methods, your ability to communicate with your dog will grow exponentially - leading to a stronger bond and more reliable behaviors.

Dealing with loose dogs

You’re out on a leashed walk with your dog, and out of nowhere, there’s an off leash dog running up to you. Maybe he’s all alone, or maybe there’s an owner in the distance calling out “he’s friendly!” What do you do?

If your own dog is highly social

The majority of the time, these encounters might be annoying but don’t cause any harm. Do your best to keep your leash loose as the dogs sniff and circle around each other, to reduce frustration and escalating arousal. Talk calmly but happily to the dogs, and remember to breathe! The calmer you are, the better your dog will do.

Once greetings are done, encourage your dog to get going again. If he’s reluctant, try jogging ahead, giving exciting/happy talk, or luring away with food. If he still doesn’t want to leave his new buddy behind, you may have to take him by the collar or harness and calmly but insistently lead him away. Reward your dog once he’s willingly walking with you, away from the other dog.

If either dog is not friendly

But what if your dog is anxious or fearful around other dogs, or even potentially aggressive? Or the oncoming dog seems aggressive? Here are some tools to keep everyone safe.

• Toss treats in the dog’s face. If the other dog isn’t coming up too quickly, and doesn’t look aggressive, throwing a handful of treats right at their face may be enough to deter them. It will startle them, and hopefully they will then drop their heads and eat the treats while you make a getaway.

• Walking cane or stick. This can be waved back and forth ahead of you, to keep the other dog back.

• Pop-up umbrella. Opening this up while it faces the other dog can startle them into stopping, and it can be waved between you and the other dog.

• SprayShield by PetSafe. This spray is strongly citronella-scented, which will deter the vast majority of oncoming dogs if sprayed in their faces (without hurting the way that mace does). Keep this in an easy to reach pocket or clipped on your pants/belt/treat pouch. You should practice pulling it out and switching off the safety during your walks, so that you’ll have good muscle memory to rely on in an emergency.

• Break stick. This is a tapered plastic or wooden stake, used to force open the jaws of a dog that has firmly clamped down and is not letting go. You must first get a strong hold of the dog that is biting down, so that they can’t regrip once you free the other dog, or redirect onto you. Insert the flat end of the break stick into the corner of the dog’s jaw, then twist as if you were revving a motorcycle. Using a break stick requires a cool head and having a strong grip on the dog and the stick, but it’s much much safer than sticking your bare hands into the situation.

• Muzzle, if your dog has bitten and caused damage before. I have known several dogs who were safely on leash with their responsible owners, had other dogs run up on them, and injured them in the resulting fight. Unfortunately if your own dog has a bite history, you have to take it upon yourself to protect other people’s dogs. Here is a page all about muzzles.

Note that you should desensitize your own dog to the waving of a walking stick, the umbrella opening and moving around, and the sound of SprayShield before you use them in a tense situation.

Extra protection for small to medium sized dogs

Consider a CoyoteVest to protect your dog’s neck and back from attack. Here is one being modeled by Frankie.

Useful training

In addition to the tools above, there are a couple things you can teach your dog to make these situations easier to navigate.

• Get behind: Your dog gets behind you and stays there, so that you can deal with the other dog.

• Come or u-turn: A strong response to “come” or “u-turn” will redirect your dog, or help him turn and run with you to quickly exit the situation.

Preparing for puppy

Bringing home a new puppy is exciting, but can be overwhelming! Here are lots of tips on what to procure ahead of time, easing the transition from the breeder’s home to yours, and setting up for a peaceful household.

What you’ll need

• Food - ask your breeder what brand of food they are feeding the puppies. They may send you home with some, or they may expect you to get a bag of your own. You’ll keep your puppy on the same food at first, so you don’t upset their digestion, then transition to a different brand slowly (if you want to).

• Bowls for food and water. You may want a “slow feeder” bowl for puppies that gulp their food quickly.

• Treats (see this article for tips on selecting treats).

• Toys - get toys with a variety of sizes, shapes, and textures. Your pup’s toy preferences may change as they are growing and teething, and you’ll want to have various on hand to discourage mouthing and chewing on furniture.

• Food toys and edible chews, to keep your pup entertained (see this article for suggestions).

• Collar and harness, for walking and tethering in the car (or use a crate). If you’re not sure what sizes to get, ask your breeder to give you a measurement of the circumferences of the pup’s neck and rib cage shortly before it’s time for pick up. I recommend a harness because it will be safer to use for teaching leash walking.

• Crate, if you’ll be using one. Crates are very helpful for potty training, chew training, and generally keeping your puppy out of trouble when unsupervised. Larger wire crates usually come with dividers, so you can get one that will fit your dog when full grown, and make it temporarily smaller for the puppy.

• Baby gates and x-pens (example), to block off areas of the house or keep your puppy contained during potty training and chew training. These can be used instead of a crate, or in different areas of the house.

• Potty pads, if you plan to use them. (You could instead commit to taking your puppy outside for every potty break, right from the start.)

• Bitter tasting spray (such as Bitter Yuck or Bitter Apple), to deter chewing on furniture.

• A big plush toy, to help your puppy settle when alone.

• Dog beds, blankets, or towels. You may not want to get anything too fancy early on, when your pup may be pottying or chewing on their bedding.

• Grooming tools. Long-haired dogs will need regular brushing to keep from matting. Dogs with poodle/doodle-type coats will need to be trimmed regularly - you can take them to a professional groomer or do this yourself. You’ll also need to trim your dog’s nails - here is an article all about nail trims.

Transitioning from the breeder’s home

• Ask your breeder whether they will be sending a toy or blanket home with the pup, so they have a familiar item to provide comfort. If not, ask if you can drop off or mail them a small blanket to put with the puppies, and then bring back home during pick up.

• If possible, visit the puppies at least once before you bring yours home. Spend some time playing with the pups and making a good first impression.

• During the car ride home, have the pup sit next to someone or on their lap. In the long term, you’ll want to have your pup safely secured in the car (using a crate or tether), but that’s very hard on most puppies during their first trip without littermates. If you are alone, secure your pup on the passenger seat so that they can see you and get reassuring petting when safe. Never allow a puppy to sit on the driver’s lap, as they may interfere with steering or fall down near the pedals.

• Let your pup investigate their new home without immediately meeting other pets - one thing at a time! Don’t let kids accost the pup while they’re still figuring everything out. (Use the resources in this article to teach kids to be respectful of dogs.)

• Do not allow your puppy to overwhelm or bully more timid or defensive animals (like other small dogs, cats, rabbits, or chickens), or be overwhelmed by older/larger dogs. (Article on introducing dogs to each other and to other animals is in the works.)

• Set up areas where your pup will be confined when unsupervised (eg crate, pen), and where they will be hanging out with you. Don’t give them free reign of the entire house at first, to minimize potty accidents and chewing on furniture/your stuff.

• Get your puppy on a regular schedule over the course of the first week.

• The first few nights can be very stressful for the puppy, who is not used to sleeping alone, and for the human, who has to listen to their pup whining and crying. The large plush toy will give them a faux littermate to cuddle up to, and a blanket that smells like the breeder’s home will help comfort them. If your pup is sleeping in a crate, place it on your bed or immediately next to it. Place your fingers through the bars and talk softly to your puppy.

When to start training

Remember that your pup is constantly learning about interacting with humans, how to play, how to be alone, and so on. You’re training from the first minute you bring them home! If getting your puppy settled into your home is a struggle, don’t hesitate to reach out for help. Formal obedience training (like sit, stay, come, leash walking prep) can begin right after.

Strangers in the Home

Dogs who are anxious or fearful of strangers struggle when those scary people enter their own home. Knocks at the door or the bell ringing often results in a mad dash to the front door and fierce barking. Some dogs will calm down after a while, only to start up again as soon as the guest gets up from the couch, or returns from using the bathroom. Here’s what you need to know when addressing this problem.

Connections with leash reactivity

Most dogs who are scared of people entering their home are also leash reactive around strangers. Please read through this article all about leash reactivity, whether or not your own dog lunges or barks on leash when passing strangers. The underlying principles will be the same during training in your home.

Go ahead and read part two (Foundation Training) and part three (Training Around Triggers) as well. You will want to teach your dog the same exit strategies, and we’ll be using the same principles of desensitization and counter-conditioning, the Engage-Disengage Game, and possibly BAT and the Play Way.

For dogs who are indeed reactive to strangers on leash, I like to address this problem first. I find that it’s easier to teach a dog to accept a stranger coming into their home if they have already learned to trust that people just walking by on the sidewalk won’t hurt them. This part is usually faster and easier. You can still get a head start on desensitization and counter-conditioning to triggers associated with the door (see below)

Management

As noted above in the leash reactivity overview, management (preventing your dog from rehearsing the unwanted behavior) is critical to success. That means that you need to keep your dog from barking out the window. Some options are:

• Close blinds

• Cover windows with privacy window film

• Use pens and gates to keep your dog back from windows

In addition, don’t leave the dog out in the yard unsupervised. When outside with your dog, immediately interrupt any barking that happens and put your dog back in the house.

Cover your doorbell with a paper or cardboard, or purchase a smart doorbell that doesn’t give an audible tone and just notifies your phone that someone is at the door. Place a sign on your door that asks people to text or call you when they arrive instead of knocking, and for packages to be left at the door without any knocking.

Avoid having guests over during the training process, or put your dog in a back room before they arrive. Play some calming music or white noise for him, and give him a stuffed food toy or chewy to entertain him.

If your dog has ever nipped or bitten someone, you should be using a muzzle during training. Start on muzzle training ASAP - see this article for resources.

Meeting guests outside

Some dogs do much better with accepting a new person coming into the home if they are able to greet them out front or in the backyard. In this case, we will be using the leash reactivity training exercises to do a slow introduction to the new person, then have them go into the house ahead of the dog. This can either become the permanent new routine for greeting guests, or it can be a temporary measure while you work on the exercises listed below.

Triggers associated with guests entering

In order for your dog to calmly greet people at the door, we need to teach him to be calm about everything leading up to it - the doorbell, knocking at the door, his owner suddenly getting up and approaching the door, and opening it up. The most straightforward approach to this part of the training is pairing high value treats with the sounds and activities that currently set your dog off in a barking frenzy. Here is a great video by Emily Larlham showing you how to break this process down into little steps:

You’ll need to work on this separately from having people over. Be patient - the more your dog has a history of getting worked up about activity at the door, the longer - and more carefully - you will need to do the counter-conditioning process to reach success.

We may also choose to have your dog go to a station near the door and stay there as you open the door and welcome guests in. This would be integrated with the counter-conditioning process above.

People approaching the home

We can work on this part of the training without worrying about any of your dog’s triggers around the door itself, by having your dog in the house and on leash, with the front door already wide open. We’ll recruit a helper to play the role of a guest approaching, and break the process down further by having them start out just standing on the sidewalk, then taking just one step toward the door before retreating, then two steps, and so on. Your dog will be learning to play the Engage-Disengage Game while this happens. Eventually your dog will be able to watch calmly as someone walks all the way to your front door and enters the house.

Guests within the home

You can now have someone come into your home - hooray! But that doesn’t mean that your dog will be comfortable right away with the guests walking around, playing an active game, or petting the pup! Here are common triggers involving guests within the home that we will continue desensitizing the dog to:

• Standing up from a couch/chair

• Walking out of sight and reappearing

• Telling an animated story or reacting to a game

• Hugging their owner

• Making during eye contact with the dog*

• Approaching the dog*

• Petting the dog*

* Note that some dogs cannot progress to the point of allowing new people to approach and pet them, and that’s okay - we will teach them to quietly ignore the guests and receive the same in return.

If your dog has ever nipped or bitten a guest, they will be wearing a muzzle when guests enter the home. Depending on the details of your dog’s behavior and previous aggression, you may be able to remove the muzzle once your dog accepts a particular guest into their trusted “inner circle.”

Prognosis

As you can see, teaching your dog to calmly accept strangers entering his home will be an involved process, but it can be done. It will require recruiting a series of helpers who are good at following directions. While you are in the training process, you will need to work around your dog’s needs and avoid having people over, or put the dog away first. The payoff will be a happy, calm family member who is a delight to guests for years to come.

Exactly how long it will take depends on how worked up your dog gets, how fearful or anxious he is, how often you practice, and how well you execute the training plan. I have worked with owners who were shocked to see that after a month of training, their dog was able to sit quietly by their side as a brand new helper waltzed through the front door and took a seat on the couch. Other owners decided that it wasn’t worth the effort to teach their dog not to freak out at activities around the front door, and had all guests greet the dog in the front yard first, then enter the house after the initial excitement had passed. Still other owners kept up the training for several months before it all came together.

We will be doing a series of private lessons in which I teach you, the owner, all you need to know so that you can continue working with your dog to your desired level of success. I will also provide ongoing support after the lessons are done, to troubleshoot any issues that come up.

Nail Trimming

Why do nail trimming and training at home?

Many clients are scared of trimming their dog’s nails, but it’s worth putting in the effort to learn how to do it yourself, and train your dog to allow it without fussing.

• You can keep up with trimming more frequently, which is important for nail and foot health. Nails that are too long will push your dog’s toes upwards from the floor, which can cause pain and decrease stability. They are also more likely to get caught on something and get split, broken, or ripped off, requiring a vet visit.

• Long nails can scratch painfully if a dog jumps on you.

• You can do just one paw - or even just one nail - at a time to keep the experience short and sweet, which helps with training success.

• You can save money by doing trimming at home.

• If your dog is uncomfortable with nail trims, outsourcing the task to your vet or groomer will set them up to be the “bad guy.” It’s so much safer and easier on both your dog and the professional working with them to have a relaxed, cooperative experience.

  • Being forced to suffer through a nail trim in the name of “getting the job done” can be traumatic and make future nail trims more and more difficult and dangerous.

The anatomy of dog nails

Before you start, you need to understand the shape and anatomy of your dogs’ nails. The outside cuticle is the part you’ll be cutting back. On the inside is a blood vessel (called the quick) and nerve. You want to avoid cutting into the quick because it will be painful and bleed a surprising amount.

Image from https://standardpoodleowner.com/poodle-grooming/anatomy-dog-nails/

Image from https://www.allthingsdogs.com/dog-anatomy/

There are a few ways to know that you are getting close to the quick. With white nails (as above), you’ll be able to see the pink blood supply, especially from underneath. With black nails, you’ll still be able to see the difference in texture between the hard outer cuticle and the inner part of the nail from below. In addition, between the quick and the outer wall is a white, chalky layer, easily visible in dark nails. If you cut (or dremel) a little bit at a time, you’ll see this layer and know to stop. More pictures of black nails here.

Puppy nails are particularly easy to trim. You’ll see the main part of the nail form a triangle shape, with a sharp point on the front. You can safely cut off that sharp point, and leave the triangle intact.

On older dogs whose nails were shorter and have recently grown out, you’ll see a similar change in shape with a little notch and a narrower front part of the nail.

Image from https://gingercavalier.com/blog/how-to-cut-dogs-nails/

Here are three videos that provide good close ups of the trimming process, showing you where to cut and what to look for - this is helpful when using a dremel, too:

Tools and options for trimming nails

There are two kinds of clippers, known as scissor style and guillotine style. Personally, I do not like the guillotine style, as I find it harder to see what I’m doing. My favorite brand of scissor style clippers is from Safari (small and large sizes), and another popular brand is Miller Forge. Note that both of these brands, and many others, include a “guard” that supposedly keeps you from cutting too far and getting the quick. DO NOT use this, as it doesn’t account for individual variability in size and length of dog nails. Instead, use the information above and learn how to tell where each nail’s quick is.

Some people prefer to use a dremel, which is a rotary tool that can sand down your dog’s nails. Many people find that they can more easily see the quick coming and stop before they cut into it. Some dogs are more relaxed with the dremel, if they have previously been cut by clippers. However, many dogs find the noise of the tool to be scary, so you may have to teach them to be okay with it (see videos below).

If you really keep up with nail maintenance, you can use a file or buff to take a little off regularly and keep them very short and smooth (and way less painful when the dog jumps on you!).

A final option is teaching your dog to file his nails down all on his own! (See training videos below.) You’ll need to make or purchase a scratch board: a plank of wood covered with sandpaper. This is a great option for dogs that like training games, or who are particularly anxious about their nails being handled. The downside is that it’s much more difficult to train them to scratch on it with their back feet, compared to their front feet.

No matter what, you should always have styptic powder on hand during trims, in case you do cut into that quick. It promotes blood clotting and will stop your dog from dripping blood everywhere he walks. A common brand is Kwik Stop. Cornstarch can be used in a pinch. You can hold your dog’s bleeding nail in the container, or pinch some between your thumb and pointer finger and hold that tightly to the cut.

Video tutorials

If you have a puppy, start nail trim training right away! As shown above, it’s easy to see how far you should cut when they are young. If your pup is already trusting and good with handling, go ahead and get trims done while they are relaxed and sleepy.

If your pup doesn’t make it that easy for you, you’ll want to go through the process of desensitization and counter-conditioning to teach them to be comfortable with handling their paws and using your trimming tools. Here is an article all about D/CC. Make sure that you know the difference between just playing with your dog’s paws versus actually desensitizing your dog to handling:

Here is a helpful video on desensitizing your dog to paw handling, before you even bring out the trimming tools:

And one that starts with paw handling, and progresses through nail trimming:

*Note that you can combine traditional desensitization and counter-conditioning with the Bucket Game.

For extra ease of trimming, you can teach your dog to lie upside down between your legs, which gives you a great view of what you’re doing:

Here’s a desensitization tutorial for introducing the dremel:

And a few ways to introduce a scratch board and teaching your dog to file his own nails:

Leash Reactivity: An Overview

What is it?

“Leash reactivity” refers to the overreaction of a dog when he sees other dogs or people while out on walks. The dog may pull, lunge, jump, whine, bark, or growl when he sees the trigger. There are a few different forms and causes of leash reactivity:

• Frustration over being held back by the leash: some dogs really want to run up to the other dogs/people. Their over-excitement turns to frustration, and becomes so intense that it looks like aggression.

• Anxiety or fear: some dogs are anxious about interacting with other dogs/people, and are taking the approach of “best defense is a good offense.” The leash may be causing the anxiety, as they are unable to control their speed and direction of approach.

• Many dogs feel a combination of both frustration and anxiety.

• It's common for dogs that display leash reactivity to be much more relaxed when they are off leash around the same triggers, because they have more control over the situation.

How do we fix it?

In order to reduce the undesirable behavior the dog is showing, we need to change the underlying emotions that are causing it. This means that we need to reduce the dog's anxiety or fear, teach him coping skills to deal with the frustration and/or anxiety, and help him redirect his energy to a more appropriate outlet.

It is crucial to not rely on punishment to simply stop the reactivity. Punishment often makes the problem worse over time, since you will be increasing the dog's anxiety. Although you can punish a dog until he stops barking at triggers if you are harsh enough, you can end up with what is called a “silent biter” - a dog who doesn't give any warnings because he is afraid of punishment, but strikes “out of the blue” when he feels he truly needs to defend himself.

Management

The first step is to scale back your dog's exposure to triggers so that you can implement a training plan. The more your dog experiences feeling frustration/anxiety around other dogs/people, the more ingrained the leash reactivity will be. While you are training, you should avoid coming close enough to dogs/people that your dog displays the reactive behavior. That might mean crossing the street, or even immediately turning around when you see other people.

You should also prevent your dog from having chances to rehearse reactivity from behind windows, fences, and in the car, as these all feed into the problem. Don't leave your dog in the yard unsupervised. Use pens or gates to keep him away from windows that face the street. Play white noise or calm music if your dog reacts to noises from outside.

Equipment

When walking your dog, do not use any equipment that will cause your dog discomfort or pain, as he will associate that with the sight of his triggers. This will make his reactivity worse. No choke chains or prong collars, and use a “no pull” harness if your dog pulls on leash (or a head halter for extreme pullers).

Set ups

The best way to teach your dog to be calm around his triggers is to do training set ups: recruit a person (with dog if needed) to act as a “decoy” for your dog to work around. This enables you to start training with a person and/or dog who is quiet and calm, and will go only where you direct them. By carefully controlling the set up, you can create successful practice sessions for your dog. You can also get in many, many repetitions within a short training session. As the training goes on, we’ll move from high controlled sessions to ones that mimic real walks, then to practicing in public.

If you don't have anyone you can recruit as a helper, it's possible to train your dog by just doing “stealth” training around people you see during regular walks - but it's harder to ensure success, and takes longer because of the low number of repetitions per encounter.

The training will always be done with the dog “below threshold,” meaning that he’s not negatively reacting to his triggers. If he does start posturing, pulling, growling, barking, or showing other signs of being “over threshold,” our priority is to get him out of that situation, calm him down, and then try again with the set up changed so he can be successful. This applies to dogs who are reactive due to fear/anxiety AND dogs who are over-excited/frustrated and lunging because they want to greet or play.