In my first article on Polite Greetings, I discussed ways that you can teach your dog to better control their excitement when greeting people. This works for most dogs! However there are dogs who get SO manic and over-aroused during greetings, that they are unable to think or exhibit self-control. These are not the dogs who are jumping up a few times and then realizing that they should sit. They are the dogs who choke themselves if held back with a leash, bark manically if put behind a gate, and seem to be trying to meld into one being with the person they are climbing onto. They may also repeatedly put their teeth on the hands or arms of the people trying to pet them to calm them down, and won’t be redirected to hold a toy instead. For these dogs, I find that you have to use techniques to lower their arousal step by step, rather than trying to get them to “control themselves.”
Preparing for training
As with any training plan in which you’re trying to teach the dog polite behaviors, you have to also prevent them from rehearsing unwanted behaviors as much as possible. This means that guests should not be coming into your home when you are not prepared to train, or your dog is kept in an area away from the front door. During walks, you do not let people approach to pet your dog unless you are ready to train. You make sure that all family members are clear and consistent with this point, and that they follow the same training approach.
You will be using a LOT of treats during this process, and they should be high value treats that your dog absolutely loves (most commonly, real meats, cheese, or freeze-dried liver - but experiment to see what your dog likes best).
Your dog will need to be on a leash before you open the door for guests, so that you can control his ability to approach them. I recommend that the leash is short (3-4’) and is attached to a harness rather than a collar, to reduce choking and gagging when your dog pulls. If your dog is very strong, you can use a tether attached to a wall or a suitably heavy piece of furniture. If that is truly not an option, you can have your dog behind a securely installed baby gate, but the training will not be as smooth.
It will also help if your dog has already had good exercise and mental stimulation before your guests arrive - but you don’t want him so tired that he’s in need of a nap and cranky or extra impulsive.
The training process
At each step, your focus is on helping your dog to lower his arousal and therefore be able to experience the greeting without needing to jump, climb, mouth, or bark as an outlet. Wait as long as it takes for that to happen. Rushing through the steps will lead to your dog reverting to his previous behavior.
Guest is let into the home. Dog is on leash and held back from reaching them.
What your guest does: Stand or sit still and chat quietly. Do not approach or reach for the dog. Do not give an excited greeting.
What you do: Stand at a distance from the guest (at least 6’, more if needed to be able to hold back your dog.) Scatter 5-10 high value treats in the area around your dog’s feet. Your dog does not need to do anything to “earn” the treats. The act of sniffing around and eating them is calming (at least a little bit!). Repeat as many times as needed. If your dog initially ignores the treats in favor of lunging toward the guest, just hold him steady and continue scattering. (Do not yank the dog back - just keep the leash at a steady length so they can’t get up to the guest.)
What you’re looking for: Dog switches focus to the treats on the floor, eats most or all of them, and then starts watching you instead of the guest as he anticipates more.
Dog is allowed to approach without greeting.
What your guest does: Continue to stand or sit still and chat quietly. Do not approach or reach for the dog. Do not give an excited greeting.
What you do: One step at a time, close the distance between your dog and the guest. Keep the leash short enough that you can still keep the dog from jumping up. Continue to drop small scatters of 3-5 treats by your dog’s front feet as your dog looks at you. Stop with your dog near the guest, but not close enough to jump up (probably about 2’ away for a medium sized dog). If your dog lunges forward, simply stop walking and wait for him to focus on you again.
If your dog is tethered or behind a gate, then you have your guest take small steps toward your dog, rather than your dog approaching them.
What you’re looking for: Dog is able to stand near the guest without trying to interact with them, looking to you for more treats.
Guest offers hand and dog practices approaching, then disengaging without greeting.
What your guest does: Stand or sit still and lower a hand down, holding it steady at the dog’s nose height. Let the dog come to the hand rather than reaching toward the dog. Do not pet the dog.
What you do: Allow your dog to reach his nose to the guest’s hand. Immediately after he does so, drop a small scatter of 3-5 treats at his front feet. (If needed, get his attention first with a treat in front of his nose, then scatter them. See “nose to toes” video demo.) Repeat as many times as needed. If your dog tries to nibble on the hand, go back to step 2.
What you’re looking for: Dog switches focus from the guest’s hand to you, as he satisfies his curiosity and anticipates more treats.
Guest calmly pets dog on the chest or collar-to-tail, without making eye contact.
What your guest does: Use the hand that was already sniffed to pet the dog, either on his back or side (from the collar to the tail), or giving gentle scratches on the front of his chest and neck. Do not give pats or thumps. Do not look the dog directly in the eyes (which increases excitement). Talk calmly and quietly.
What you do: AS the dog is getting petting, continue to drop at least 1 treat at a time at your dog’s front feet. Start with the treats coming rapid-fire. Slowly decrease the rate of treats if your dog is relaxing into the petting. Increase the rate of treats if your dog is lifting his head to look directly up into the person’s face (which is often a precursor to jumping in over-aroused dogs).
What you’re looking for: Dog is able to eat the treats while experiencing petting, then gives signs of relaxation such as leaning against the guest, sitting or lying down, slower breathing, and slower movements with his body.
Petting ends by leading dog away from the guest.
What your guest does: Pause petting and wait.
What you do: Call your dog to move away from the guest. If he’s reluctant to go, drop a few treats farther away to entice him. If absolutely needed, use gentle leash pressure to help.
What you’re looking for: Dog willingly walks away from the guest.
Progressing further
When you see that your dog is doing particularly well at a given step, you can switch from dropping multiple treats to just one at a time. At that point, you can also give the treat from your hand rather than dropping it on the floor, if you wish.
Try slowing down the frequency of the treats.
If your dog turns back to the guest and starts to get over-aroused again, then he still needs the treats to be given more frequently, and he needs more time at the current step.
If your dog patiently waits for the next one, without fixating on the guest, you’re good to go.
You can ask your dog to respond to obedience cues, such as a sit or go to mat, once they are in a calmer frame of mind.
The more you practice, the more quickly your dog will be able to calm down and proceed through the steps. What was once a drawn-out process, with dozens of treats, will become a quick pause and reward at each step before continuing on.
Eventually, your dog will be able to calmly approach the guest, get some petting, then be called back to settle somewhere else if desired.