Leash Reactivity: Training Around Triggers

You have the background info, you’ve done the foundational training. Finally, let’s get to actually teaching your dog to be calm around his triggers.

Desensitization and counter conditioning

This is one of the gold standard approaches to reducing reactivity, especially when it is caused by fear or anxiety. In brief, we will teach your dog that the appearance of his triggers predicts getting yummy treats. Here is an article with more information on this process and how to apply it.

1. Dog sees trigger.

2. Dog gets treat - sometimes just one, sometimes a stream of treats the whole time the trigger is happening/in sight.

Engage-Disengage Game

I often begin training with straight desensitization and counter conditioning exercises, but then progress to using the Engage-Disengage Game. There are two stages to this:

1. Mark and reward the dog as soon as he looks at the trigger (engages).

2. Let the dog look at the trigger for a few seconds and wait. Mark and reward as soon as the dog looks away (disengages) from the trigger.

Here is a lovely graphic from Alice Tong that explains the Engage-Disengage Game in detail.

If you prefer learning via video, here is one from Charleston Animal Society explaining how to teach this exercise, and here is another one from Bravo Dog Training & Behaviour.

Here is an example video of Georgia performing the Engage-Disengage Game with me while looking at another dog at PetSmart. (Yes, Georgia was very leash reactive before her training started!)

Here is a video of a dog fully trained in the Engage-Disengage (or “Look at That”) Game going for a stroll and “pointing out” potential triggers to his person.

This exercise provides the dog with a specific alternative behavior that they can perform instead of lunging, barking, and so on. It gives them more control over the situation and helps reframe the training exercise into a fun game. It also gives the owner more insight into how their dog is feeling about the trigger (did the dog disengage promptly or after a delay? Are the dog’s movements fluid and controlled or fast and frantic? Is the dog even able to disengage on his own without help?).

BAT (Behavior Adjustment Training)

This is another technique that works very well when combined with counter-conditioning and/or the Engage-Disengage Game. I will often use all three in a single session, flowing from one to the next as best fits the moment and the dog’s demeanor.

BAT was developed by Grisha Stewart. It is usually done with the dog on a long line (leash that is 10+ feet long) for better freedom of movement. (Remember that the more control your dog feels he has over the situation, the more relaxed he will be, which allows for greater success in the initial stages of training.) It can also be done on a regular leash if the dog is able to keep it loose.

We start far away and allow the dog to meander around the area. We keep him from inadvertently rushing toward the decoy, but allow him to observe his surroundings until he notices the helper. At that point you:

• Help your dog come to a stop by slowing down and then halting progress with the leash.

• Make sure the leash is slack once your dog has stopped.

• Wait and watch your dog's body language.

  • If your dog is becoming more tense/alert or starting to show overt reactivity toward the trigger, help him move away (use one of the exit strategies explained above).

  • If he is calmly observing the trigger, let him continue watching. (The exception is for dogs who will go over threshold if they stare for too long.)

  • When he disengages and goes back to walking, sniffing, or other calm behavior, praise and continue letting him meander around the area.

This training technique most closely resembles a “real” walk and the final behavior we want from your dog: noticing a trigger, watching for a moment, then turning away and continuing to walk with you.

Play Way

This approach, developed by Amy Cook, is different than most because rather than teaching your dog specific alternative behaviors around his triggers, it focuses on helping your dog truly relax and even play with you while out and about in the world. Here is her explanation on using social play for behavior problems, and here is a detailed article on the method. I generally recommend this technique for dogs who have many triggers for their anxiety, and have trouble relaxing and letting down their guard.

Practice playing together both on and off leash, first in the house, then in the yard. Think of your playtime as including lots of back and forth communication: are you enjoying this? Do you need a break? Would you prefer to do something else? Follow the “3 second rule” - after about 3 seconds of play or petting, pause and see what your dog does. If he engages with you, great, keep going! If he turns away or looks around, that means that he needs a break, or is concerned about something in the environment, or wasn’t into the type of play/petting you were doing. Give him a moment to look around, then ask him if he would like to play some more.

Over time, you dog will build confidence and be happy to ignore the rest of the world in favor of connecting with you in play.

Here are some video examples of playing with dogs, without treats or toys, and without overwhelming shy dogs or getting bitten or jumped on by big dogs:

• Myself playing with Bodi at PetSmart.

• Tania Lanfer of Cannon Dog Training encouraging play outdoors.

• Amy Cook playing with a small dog, and using lots of little pauses to make sure the dog isn’t overwhelmed.

• Amy Cook coaching an owner with a large dog on playing together.

• Non-contact play with a puppy who needs a confidence boost.

• Man playing gently on the floor with a tiny Shih Tzu puppy. (Get ready for a huge boost of oxytocin!)