Guide to Harnesses

Harnesses are considered to be safer for walking dogs who pull on the leash, as they reduce the pressure on the throat. This is particularly important for smaller dogs (who are more fragile), puppies, and dogs who pull hard enough to cough and wheeze. There are many styles of harnesses on the market - here is a guide with lots of examples.

TIP: Make sure to measure your dog before purchasing a harness, so that you know which size to get. Measure the circumference around your dog’s rib cage with a tape measure, or with string that you then compare to a ruler.

 

Traditional or “back clip” harnesses

With these, you attach the leash over the dog’s back, and they spread the pressure from a tight leash across the dog’s chest. This reduces potential injury and makes it more comfortable for the dog when he pulls. For this reason, you may hear that harnesses “encourage” pulling. That’s not actually true - you can still implement leash walking training to teach your dog to walk nicely.

You can divide “back clip” harnesses into three types, depending on how they are placed onto the dog’s body.

 

Front clip or “no pull” harnesses

With these harnesses, you attach the leash in front of the dog’s sternum*, which turns the dog toward the side when he pulls. This gives the walker a mechanical advantage when slowing the dog down or turning to the side. Therefore, it is easier to keep control over the dog and implement leash walking training.

*Some people like to use a double-ended leash and attach it both the back and the front of a no pull harness, as they feel that this gives them even more control.

I do not recommend the following “no pull” harnesses:

 

Consider your needs (does your dog pull enough to require a front clip harness, or will a back clip be fine?) and your dog’s preferences (does he mind something going over his head or having his legs lifted up?), and don’t forget to measure your dog before you purchase.

If you find that your dog is still reluctant to put on a harness, read here about training him to be comfortable and cooperative. [Link to come!]

 
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Specialty Dog Gear

This is a collection of links to various specialty dog gear you may find useful.

 

Leashes

Super-Grip Leash (has rubber threads sewn in for a secure grip anywhere along the length of the leash)

Chain Link Leash (discourages chewing on leash)

Double Ended Leash (for connecting your leash to both a collar and harness, both the back and front clips on a harness, head halter and collar, etc)

Traffic Lead (for when you just want a short leash on your dog, eg in crowded areas or walking from your car to the park and back)

Roamer Bungee Dog Leash (comfortable waist leash with bungee for hands-free walking)

More Hands Free/Waist Leashes

 

Leash Management

Safety Strap (for connecting head halter or prong collar to back up collar)

Leash Extender (for when your leash is juuust a bit too short, or for your dog to wear so it’s easier to clip and unclip his regular leash)

Magic Latch magnetic leash connector (allows you to easily clip a leash to a collar with one hand)

Heavy-Duty Frog Clip (secure leash clip that can be opened and closed with one hand)

 

Long Lines

Custom Biothane Long Lines (other widths are available as separate products in their store)

Custom Biothane Drag Lines (no handle on end) (other widths are available as separate products in their store)

Leash Caddy (for carrying a long line on your belt or hanging it up for storage)

 

Collars

Martingales (also called “limited slip” or “greyhound” collars; prevent backing out of the collar) (this company makes gorgeous ones!)

Custom Martingales (very many fun designs)

Plain Martingales

Keep Safe Breakaway Collar (will come off dog’s neck if tugged, eg if dog gets stuck on something, or another dog’s teeth get caught during play)

 
 

Crates

PetSafe Happy Ride Collapsible Cat & Dog Travel Crate (car crate for small to medium sized dogs, which only takes up one rear seat; great for dogs that need less visibility out the window)

RuffLand Performance Kennels (strong crates with a great reputation for car safety)

Sleepypod (crash tested carrier for pets up to 15 lbs)

 

Wearables

OutFox Field Guard (to keep foxtails from going into a dog’s ears, eyes, nose, and mouth; also prevents scavenging)

Ear Pro for Dogs (to decrease noises)

No Flap Ear Wrap (to protect injured ears while they heal)

Rex Specs Goggles (to protect eyes)

ThunderShirt (snug fit provides calming pressure for some dogs)

Calming Cap/ThunderCap (to limit visibility, eg, for reactive dog in car)

Suitical Recovery Suit for Dogs (body suit that discourages chewing on surgery sites, hot spots, etc, as an alternative to a cone)

Vet Worthy Protective Cone Dog Collar (clear plastic cone/e-collar, less stressful for dogs than traditional opaque ones)

Comfy Cone E-Collar (soft e-collar)

KONG Cloud Collar (inflatable “doughnut” alternative to cone)

Calm Paws Basic Inflatable Dog Collar (inflatable “doughnut” alternative to cone)

 

Defensive Items

Spray Shield – Citronella Spray (strongly scented spray can, used to deter oncoming dogs)

RedStick break stick (used to release hold of a dog on an object or other animal in an emergency situation)

Pig Sorting Panel (used to create a physical barrier in front of an aggressive dog in an emergency situation)

 

Looking for muzzles? See here.
Looking for harnesses? Article to come.
Looking for head halters? Article to come.

 
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Muzzles

Why a muzzle?

Muzzles often get a bad rap because they make a dog look “scary.” However they are an important tool for keeping dogs - and people - safe. There are multiple reasons that a dog may wear a muzzle, for example:

Cai wore a muzzle when he went to the emergency room for an eye injury.

Cai wore a muzzle when he went to the emergency room for a painful eye injury.

  • The dog is fearful of strangers or dogs approaching. The muzzle not only keeps this dog from being able to bite someone, it also acts as a signal for others to give him space.

  • The dog may be friendly and social most of the time, but bite in specific contexts, such as when guarding food or his owner.

  • The dog may be too rough with biting during play, but otherwise play nicely. (One of my own dogs fits this category.)

  • The dog may bite when in pain. (One of my dogs needs to be muzzled at the vet’s if he is injured because he would bite the vet.)

  • The dog may be in the habit of picking up trash or other unsafe items and trying to eat them.

  • The dog may have severe allergies or another medical condition that could be triggered by eating things off the ground, or eating another dog’s treats.

  • The dog may be required to wear a muzzle while traveling or due to breed-specific legislation.

Whatever the reason, muzzles can be a lifesaving tool.

 

What kind of muzzle should I use?

If your dog will be wearing the muzzle for more than a few minutes, you should use a “basket” muzzle. This is the type that creates a “cage” around the dog’s jaws. It mostly prevents the dog from biting anyone*, but still allows him to eat treats, drink water, and pant to cool himself down.

Do not use a “soft” or “grooming” muzzle that forces the dog’s mouth shut - this is dangerous because it does not allow the dog to pant to cool down. It may also still allow the dog to nip with his front teeth!

* Note that determined dogs may still manage to nip, bite, or grab objects through softer basket muzzles. Here is an article that compares muzzle types, and will help you choose an appropriate muzzle for your dog’s temperament and specific needs.

Here is a video from dog aggression expert Michael Shikashio on choosing an appropriate type and size of muzzle for your individual dog:

 

Where can I buy a muzzle?

Terra wears a muzzle because she can be too rough during play.

Terra wears a muzzle because she can be too rough during play.

There are a few brands that you can find in big box stores, however these may not fit your particular dog well, especially if your dog has a particularly flat, long, or wide snout (for example, French Bulldog, Greyhound, or pit bull-type). Always measure your dog’s snout rather than going by the “suggested size” for a particular breed. For example, the Baskerville Ultra is easy to find but has limited sizing options.

If your dog is full grown, I recommend purchasing a muzzle that is more accurately sized for your specific dog. That will require getting measurements of your dog’s snout, head, and neck. If you are ordering online, check the vendor’s recommendations for where and how to measure for their own products.

 

Wire muzzles - good for high bite risk dogs, with the one caveat that getting “punched” by a wire muzzle still hurts:

Vinyl muzzles - good for biters and scavengers:

Solid, non-flexible, injection-molded polyethylene (plastic) - good for biters and have an optional “scavenger guard”:

Custom biothane muzzles - for lower bite risk dogs; coverage can be fuller for scavengers or more open for increased airflow:

 

Teaching your dog to wear a muzzle

Now that you have your appropriately-sized muzzle, you need to teach your dog to be comfortable wearing it. Unfortunately most dogs will scratch and fuss if you just put something on their face and head out. Teaching them to be okay with it is not difficult, as long as you break the process down into little steps and make it fun along the way - that’s desensitization!

Here is a how-to video by Emily Larlham:

Here is another video by Chirag Patel:

Here is one from Sarah McManaman that focuses just on the process of buckling the muzzle behind the dog’s head:

 
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