Cowbell Protocol

This is an adaption of Sarah Stremming’s “Cowbell Protocol,” as described on her podcast, Cog Dog Radio. Thank you to Sarah for sharing so much of her experience and wisdom!

This is a technique for teaching a dog to come running into the house (from either the backyard or out front), based in classical conditioning and following a few simple rules for the owner. It can be used to retrain dogs who prefer spending time in the yard rather than coming inside, or for dogs who have a history of bolting out the door.

Before you start

Before you begin training, you must first prevent your dog from continuing to ignore you when you call them inside. If you don’t stop them from continuing that bad habit, it will be much more difficult to teach a newer, more appealing one.

• If your dog doesn’t like to come in from the fenced yard, then attach a drag line to their harness (recommended) or collar before you let them out. When it’s time for them to come back in, go out and pick up the end of the drag line, and simply lead your dog back indoors. Don’t call them when you know that they will ignore you, and don’t get into a game of chase.

• If your dog likes to bolt out the door, create an “air lock” with an exercise pen or baby gate that will allow you to open the front door without the dog being able to get out. The pen or gate should always be closed before the front door is opened, and the front door must always be closed before you open the gate/pen.

You don’t need to use a literal cowbell, but you do need to use something that will make a loud and distinct noise*. You want this to sound very different from how you usually call your dog (you know, the words that they’ve already learned to ignore, like “come!”). You could use a whistle or a loud rattle, for example. Keep this item near the door that your dog doesn’t want to enter through.

*Note that if your dog is sound-sensitive, you will want to start off with softly making the noise, and make it louder when your dog needs to hear it from farther away.

You will also need lots of high value treats for your dog. Use their very favorite foods. For most dogs, that means meats (eg, rotisserie chicken, hot dogs, meatballs, deli ham), cheeses (like string cheese), or organ meats (freeze-dried beef liver, chicken hearts).

Making the cowbell important

1. Get 5 pieces of your high value treats without your dog noticing. This may mean getting them out while the dog is in another room or on a walk. If they catch you getting the food ready, put it into a bowl and place it out of reach, and wait for your dog to give up and get distracted.

2. While your dog is indoors, in earshot but not looking right at you, ring the cowbell. Immediately after the noise, you will drop those 5 treats onto a spot near the doorway, inside the house. You will use this same spot every single time. (Use a spot by the back door if your dog has problems with the backyard, and a spot by the front door if your dog runs out front.)

3. Encourage your dog to find the treats if needed, and excitedly praise them as they eat.

4. Let your dog go back about his day.

Practicing success

1. Repeat the steps above at least 20 times while your dog is in the house. This should be spaced out over several days. Do not continue to the next step until they come zooming in from another room every time you ring the cowbell.

2. Now practice while the dog is in the backyard but not engaged in any exciting behaviors. For example, your dog is sunbathing, or just sitting and watching birds fly by. They are not barking at the neighbor, digging a hole, chasing another animal, or eating poop. Let them return to the backyard after their treats. Repeat at least 50 times, over several days. Do not continue to the next step until they come zooming in from the backyard when you ring the cowbell.

3. If your dog has trouble with bolting outside, then put them on a long leash or tether (at least 10’) and hang out by the front door as your dog goes out. Wait for your dog to be done with their initial excited sniffing and wandering. Then ring the bell and practice as above. Let your dog go back into the front yard on their long leash or tether after their treats. Repeat at least 50 times, over several days. Do not continue to the next step until they come zooming in from out front when you ring the cowbell.

Remember that during this process, your dog is not loose in the backyard without a way for you to easily bring them indoors without calling them. They also are prevented from bolting out the front door by the air lock.

Testing and troubleshooting

Once you’ve completed the steps above, you can test your dog’s response. Don’t get the treats out beforehand, but do still use the drag line or long leash just in case.

• In the backyard, wait for your dog to be engaged in an exciting activity, like barking, digging, or chasing. Ring the bell. When your dog comes in, close the door and then run and get the treats! Bring them back to the special spot and drop 5 treats like usual.

• Attach your dog’s harness/collar to the long leash or tether as they’re still in the house, then leave the front door open and walk away. Right after they go outside, ring the bell. When your dog comes in, close the door and then run and get the treats! Bring them back to the special spot and drop 5 treats like usual.

If your dog doesn’t come zooming inside, bring them in using your line. Thank goodness you had it on just in case, right? Go back to practicing success another 50 times, then test again.

• Remember that during training, you should have the treats ready to drop, but your dog should not see or hear you getting them ready. To make it easier, you can prep a few rounds of treats and leave them in a bowl near the door, but out of the dog’s reach. Then you can easily grab them as you practice throughout the day.

Integrating into daily life

Follow these rules to make sure that your training stays strong:

• You will need to continue practicing, using the line as a back up, for an extended period of time. This includes practicing out front, for dogs who bolt.

  • You might be thinking, “If the dog always has a line or tether on as a back up, won’t they know that they don’t need to come back if they actually get loose one day?” The answer is practice, practice, practice! You want the dog to be so used to turning and running inside as soon as they hear the cowbell, that they don’t stop and think about it - it’s automatic.

• You should be allowing your dog to go back outside after they get their treats at least 80% of the time.

  • If you switch to frequently calling them, then closing the door and ending all their fun, they may decide that the treats aren’t worth it after all.

• You should also continue to use the high value treats at least 80% of the time.

  • You can occasionally substitute other rewards, but if you switch to frequently using “ho hum” treats or none at all, they may decide that it’s not worth it after all.

When you get to the point that you would be willing to bet $100 that your dog will come zooming in even if they didn’t have their safety line on, you can start to relax on the rules. Add them back in if your dog starts to regress.

Really Real Relaxation by Suzanne Clothier

This relaxation protocol was developed by the wonderful trainer Suzanne Clothier. You can purchase the DVD, streaming video, or course to get full information straight from the source. The story of Jinx the Belgian Tervuren written here is a wonderful example of the power of this training technique.

The RRR teaches the dog to relax while lying down, with the owner also relaxing next to them as a cue to the dog. At first it’s very short, and builds duration over time. Because it emphasizes offered rather than cued behavior, the dog is able to learn to self-regulate, even while watching the world go by around them.

Written instructions for the protocol are here (PDF).

Video examples, from start to finish

Relaxation Protocol: Suzanne Clothier - Indoors by J-R Companion Dog Training takes you through all the steps as written above

Using Suzanne Clothier's Really Real Relaxation Protocol by Kizz Robinson shows a dog learning the RRR in real time:

Prevent Demand Behaviors With This Relaxation Protocol by Noble Woof Dog Training shows a dog practicing in a calm location outdoors:

Really Real Relaxation with Kona and Kit by CanineCountryAcademy shows two dogs in the same room learning to relax with their own handlers:

And my favorite video - Really Real Relaxation Protocol—advanced by Tegan Moore shows a dog switching between active work and focus with his handler, and relaxing together:

Stay, Part 1: Foundation

Staying in place, on cue, is a core part of manners training for dogs. It’s the way that we can tell our dog to patiently wait while we tie our shoes during a walk, wait for a light to cross the street, stand aside for other people to walk by, look through products at the pet store, get stuff in and out of the car, hide treats or toys for the dog to find, and of course, to take posed photos!

Before starting stay training

You need to consider these things:

• Do you care whether your dog holds a sit versus a down? In other words, if you start your dog in a sit, and partway through he lies down to be more comfortable, will that be okay?

  • If you are planning to do advanced training with your dog, like fancy tricks or sports, it will be important to teach your dog to literally stay still.

  • If you just want your dog to remain in one spot, you may not care whether he’s sitting or lying down, as long as he’s not wandering around.

• Don’t confuse stay versus wait. Stay means “don’t move from that spot” or literally “don’t move at all.” Wait means “don’t go through this door” or “don’t rush ahead.” See example video below.

Step One: Can your dog hold still at all?

If you have a wiggly puppy, or a dog who is very excited about food, you may have to introduce the concept of “stillness” before you start real stay training!

Start with practicing the “Slow Treats” Game, for one treat at a time.

Then add staying still for longer:

1. Hold several small, non-crumbly treats in one hand.

2. Cue your dog to sit (or lie down).

3. Immediately feed him several treats rapid fire - so quickly that he doesn’t even have time to get up.

   • If he does get up before you finish the treats, simply start over from the top.

4. Repeat until he is not wiggling or jumping as you give him the rapid fire treats.

Video shows a dog who initially moves toward her owner's hands to reach for the treats. The owner then does "fast food" rapid fire treats, and the dog quickly realizes that she can just hold still and wait for the treats to come to her.

Step Two: Adding start and stop cues

Now that your dog is able to hold still for several seconds, we’ll name the behavior.

1. Hold several small, non-crumbly treats in one hand.

2. Cue your dog to sit (or lie down).

3. Say “stay” and then hold out a hand, palm out, in a “stop” signal.

4. Feed your dog several treats, one after the other, until you only have 1 treat left.

5. Say “free” and then wave your hand in a “come over here” gesture.

6. Give your dog the last treat in your hand.

   • If your dog doesn’t get up when you say “free” and then wave your hand, then give him more encouragement, like calling his name in a happy voice or making “kissy” noises.

Repeat the steps above until your dog is reliably holding still after you say “stay” AND getting up when you say “free.”

• If your dog is having trouble holding still, spend more time giving treats as he’s not moving.

• If your dog hesitates to get up, give fewer treats for holding still and emphasize “free.”

Adding "stay" and "free" cues, with several treats in between as the dog holds their position. From now on, your stay practice should always follow this format: cue the stay, several treats given while the dog stays, then clearly end with "free."

Step Three: Adding duration

Now you will teach your dog to wait longer in between treats. You will still be using the same overall format as above:

1. Hold several small, non-crumbly treats in one hand.

2. Cue your dog to sit (or lie down).

3. Say “stay” and then hold out a hand, palm out, in a “stop” signal.

4. Pause for 2 seconds, then reward if your dog stayed still.

5. Pause for 3 seconds, then reward if your dog stayed still.

6. Reward your dog for staying still for 1-5 seconds - switch it up so he doesn’t know what to expect. (For example, 2 seconds, 3 seconds, 1 second, 4 seconds, 2 seconds, 5 seconds, 2 seconds.)

   • If at any point your dog gets up, simply restart the exercise.

7. When you’re down to your last treat, say “free,” then wave your hand in a “come over here” gesture.

8. Give your dog the last treat in your hand.

During this training, you should be standing calmly next to your dog - don’t try to walk around until your dog can stay still for at least 5 seconds.

Leash Walking: Circle Walking

Circle walking is a way to redirect your dog’s focus and movement when they get to the end of the leash, while avoiding the annoyance of coming to a full stop. I generally recommend this for:

• Dogs who ramp up in frustration and arousal when they want to get somewhere and are stopped.

• Dogs who are not interested in treats.

• Dogs who move too quickly, and are constantly “ping-ponging” between heel position and the end of the leash.

• Dogs who need to move their bodies to calm down when excited.

• Owners who get frustrated by having all the starting and stopping of some other techniques.

Video tutorials

Main takeaways

• Just as with other techniques, you must not walk forward while the leash is tight, which would reinforce the pulling.

• You are not yanking or dragging your dog to turn, but rather using just enough steady pressure to the side that he does so.

• Don’t stand in one spot and pivot; walk in a small circle with your dog.

• Let your dog have a longer leash so that he moves his body more. Don’t pull him in close and slingshot him around your body - that’s not calming!

• If you do a full circle but your dog still speeds up to rush ahead, simply continue doing your circles until he calms and slows down and moves with you.

• If your dog is interested in treats, combine circle walking with rewarding relaxed heeling at your side.

Heel, Part 2: Adding Difficulty

After working through Part 1, your dog understands how to line up at your side, take a step forward with you, and stop when you stop. Now that you have this foundation in place, you can add more steps, and teach him to stay with you around distractions.

Increasing steps/Decreasing rewards

This should still be done in your home or back yard, so that it is easy for your dog to focus.

1. Get your dog into heel position with your hand signal and/or verbal cue.

2. Take 2-3 steps forward instead of just 1. (Encourage your dog to keep going forward if needed, with a kissy noise or by wiggling your fingers.)

3. Reward your dog as he’s moving with you or catching up with you.

4. Take another 2-3 steps forward, and reward.

5. Start changing things up. Sometimes you take a few steps forward, and sometimes you stop and reward your dog for staying at your side and waiting.

6. Over time, increase the number of steps you take, but keep it unpredictable. (For example, 3 steps, 4 steps, stop for 5 seconds, 3 steps, stop for 2 seconds, 5 steps, 6 steps, 2 steps, stop for 5 seconds.)

Adding distractions

Your dog will learn best if you practice around controlled distractions in your home or back yard before you try heeling in public. Controlled distractions are ones that you purposefully create for your dog’s training session, and you can make them easier or harder as needed.

Examples of controlled distractions are:

• Toys, treats, chews, or other interesting objects set out on the ground.

• Another person walking around, either calmly (easier) or doing interesting things like tossing a ball and catching it (harder).

• Another person running around or being silly. The more exciting or unexpected their movement, the harder it is for your dog to focus on you.

• Another pet walking around the area (easier) or playing or getting treats from a family member (harder).

• A remote controlled car or robot toy moving or making noises. (Note: You shouldn’t use anything that your dog is nervous/afraid of as a distraction - only things that are interesting or exciting. If your dog is nervous, use desensitization and counter-conditioning to help him feel calm and confident around that object.)

Your goal is that your dog is able to notice the distraction, then refocus on you and continue heeling.

1. Initially you can reward your dog as soon as he notices the distraction. Make a connection between “something is happening in the environment” and “my person gives me yummy treats.” Repeat several times.

2. Then let your dog notice the distraction, and wait for him to look back at you on his own, because he is expecting a treat. Reward when he refocuses. This is the Engage-Disengage Game in action. Repeat until your dog is quick to look back at you after glancing at the distraction.

3. At this point, you can stop rewarding your dog for glancing at the distraction, and only reward him if he stays focused on you.

Troubleshooting

• If your dog leaves your side to investigate the distraction, immediately call him back, and reward him for returning to you. Then make the distraction easier, until he’s mastered it (step 3 above).

• If at any point your dog is unable to refocus on you, that means that your distraction is too hard. Make it easier.

• You can make the distractions easier by:

  • Increasing your distance from them

  • Having them move less

  • Having them make less noise

The more you practice with a variety of controlled distractions, letting your dog master each one, the better prepared he will be to heel with you out in public.

Heel, Part 1: Foundation

Heeling is the foundation of teaching polite leash walking and extended focus while out in public. It means that your dog is walking right by your side, keeping pace with you, turning and stopping when you do. It is beautiful to watch a fully focused dog moving with their person as if in a dance.

Traditionally, heeling is taught with the dog on the owner's left side, which leaves their right hand (probably the dominant one) to fire a hunting rifle, throw an item for the dog to retrieve, or get on a horse. You are free to choose whether you want your own dog to heel on your left or right side. You can even teach both and use them each as needed.

You should do all of this foundation training in your home or yard, rather than trying to get your dog to focus and learn something brand new during walks.

Getting into heel position

We'll start by teaching our dog how to get into “heel position” at your side. I will assume that the dog is on your left for these explanations - use your right hand and do everything as in a mirror image if you want him on your right side.

1. Start with your dog in front of you. Hold a treat in your left hand.

2. Entice your dog to follow your left hand as you swing it back, as if you’re reaching for something behind you. (If you have a large dog, you may need to step back with your left leg so your hand can reach far enough.)

3. When your dog has followed your hand far enough that his butt is by your left leg, move your hand in a “u” shape so that he turns 180 degrees. (Make sure that you are making the “u” counter-clockwise, so your dog is turning toward you to make the turn.) He should end up at your left side, facing the same direction as you.

4. Let your dog eat the treat in your hand.

5. Repeat steps 1-4 until you can smoothly and quickly move your dog from in front of you to next to your left side, facing forward.

6. Now practice steps 1-4 with an empty hand – no treat to lure the dog. Once he is in heel position, you'll get a treat from your pocket/treat pouch and hand it to him with your left hand.

Luring River into right and left heel positions.

Transitioning from lure to hand signal with Rafaelo.

Adding “start” and “stop” cues

Some dogs will easily learn how to line up at your side, but then they wander off after they get their treat. Here we’re teaching them to start heeling when they hear “heel,” and that they’re done when they hear “free.”

1. Start with your dog in front of you. Have several treats ready in your pocket/treat pouch or your right hand.

2. Say “heel.”

3. Use your (empty) left hand to cue him to come into heel position at your left side.

4. Reward your dog.

5. Pause for 1 second, then reward again if your dog stayed next to you in heel position.

6. Pause for 2 seconds, then reward again if your dog stayed next to you in heel position.

7. Reward your dog for staying next to you for 1-5 seconds - switch it up so he doesn’t know what to expect. (For example, 2 seconds, 3 seconds, 1 second, 4 seconds, 2 seconds, 5 seconds, 2 seconds.)

   1. If at any point your dog wanders off, simply call him back and start again.

8. When you’re down to your last treat, say “free!”

9. Then step away from your dog so that you two are no longer lined up, and give him the last treat. Take a break to play or cuddle.

Rafaelo staying in heel position in between treats.

Adding steps

Once your dog is reliably getting into heel position and waiting at your side until you say “free,” it’s time to get moving!

1. Start with your dog in heel position.

2. Take one big step forward.

3. Reward your dog as he steps forward with you. Make sure to hand him the treat with your left hand if he is on your left side, or your right hand if he is on your right side.

   1. If your dog didn't step forward, encourage him to do so by patting your side, wiggling your fingers, or making a “kissy” noise. Reward him when he catches up.

   2. If your dog walks too far forward and passes you, call him back and restart. On the next few reps, bring your hand down with the treat earlier, so that you “catch” the dog before he gets past you.

4. Don’t immediately take another step - instead, reward your dog for just staying by your side and waiting patiently for 1-5 seconds at a time.

5. Repeat steps 1-4 until your dog smoothly steps forward with you every time, and he stays waiting by your side when you are stopped.

Taking 1 step at a time in heel position with Rafaelo. (This video does not include the owner stopping and having the dog wait in heel position for several seconds for a treat.)

River learning to walk forward just 1 step at a time in heel position. (This video does not include the owner stopping and having the dog wait in heel position for several seconds for a treat.)

What’s the reason for rewarding your dog so much for just standing next to you? It’s easy to get your dog to go forward - most of our dogs need a lot more practice slowing and stopping to keep pace with us slow humans! We want to instill a strong foundation in watching your movement and sticking to your side like glue instead of rushing forward.

Coming When Called (Recall), Part 2

In Part 1 you established your recall cue and laid a strong foundation with your amazing parties. Here are the next steps.

Adding challenges

Now that your dog has a strong, positive response to the cue, and is immediately whipping his head around and following you, you’re going to start calling him away from distractions.

1. Make a list of situations that are low, medium, high, and EXTRA HIGH level distractions. An example list might be:

   Low: Just walking around the backyard, playing on his own with a toy, walking down the sidewalk with no one around.

   Medium: Playing tug with a family member, sniffing out fallen kibble under the couch, watching another dog across the street.

   High: Sniffing a gopher hole, greeting a favorite guest who’s just arrived, greeting a new dog.

   EXTRA HIGH: In the middle of playing with a favorite doggy friend, eating cat poop, chasing a rabbit.

2. Practice calling your dog to come around low level distractions. Make sure to follow the rules of recall!

3. Once you’ve practiced around a variety of low level distractions, consider your list of medium distractions. Consider the question: “Would I be willing to bet $20 that my dog will recall from this medium level distraction?” If the answer is yes, go for it! If not, avoid using your sacred recall word, and keep building up that history of successful recalls.

4. Repeat step 3 as you progress to high and then EXTRA HIGH level distractions. Don’t worry if it’s taking your dog awhile to become reliable in those more challenging situations. Just keep building up that successful history.

How to avoid undoing your training

It is so, so important that you avoid calling your dog to come if:

• you’re doubtful that he will actually do it,

• you don’t have a high value reward for him when he does come, or

• maybe you do, but then you need to follow it up with something unpleasant.

Your dog will quickly lose reliability if you don’t follow the rules of recall - because he’s learning that the cue is not important, or worse, it predicts something bad.

If you need to do something unpleasant (such as giving your dog a bath or locking him up before you leave the house), you should go and get your dog, instead. Clip a leash on to lead him to the bathtub, kennel, etc. If he is already in a habit of avoiding your reach, then leave a leash on your dog’s harness and collar (only when supervised), and pick up that “drag leash” when you need to lead him.

Keep this in mind when you are calling your dog to come into the house from the yard, or to leave the park. If your dog doesn’t want to leave, you call him, he comes, and then you take away his fun… you’ve just punished him for coming to you! So practice calling him toward the door/car, giving him a BIG reward, and then letting him go back to have more fun. Do this way more often than you actually take him away.

If your dog is not yet trained to come when off leash, he shouldn’t be fully off leash - however this is where long lines are a lifesaver. They allow you to give your dog enough freedom to exercise and play, without losing control. Retractable leashes are also an option, however they should be used with caution as they can be dangerous. (It is difficult to pull your dog back to you when he is on a retractable leash, and the cord getting wrapped around limbs can cause burns and cuts. Dogs should not be allowed to play while one is attached to a retractable leash.)

What if he doesn't come?

At some point, despite your best intentions, you will call your dog, and he will ignore you. Here's what to do:

1. Get closer to your dog, and try to get his attention by bending down, talking to him, or gently tapping him on the back/side.

2. If you think he will be successful, call him again when you are closer. Back up and have him follow you away from the distraction. Reward him when he follows - even though it wasn’t ideal, in the end, he did the behavior and you want to keep the positive association strong.

3. If you can't get his attention, but you need him to move, gently but firmly use his collar, harness, or leash to move him away from the distraction.

4. Don't punish your dog, or he will learn to avoid your approach.

5. If possible, recreate the situation to give him another chance to be successful. Reward greatly if he is!

6. If you have multiple failures in similar situations, that means that you need to back up in your training and better prepare your dog. Go back to easier levels of distractions. For example, if you were calling when your dog was in the middle of playing with another dog, practice calling while play is winding down or they’re on break. Or if you were calling when your dog was getting petting from a guest, have your guest stop petting as soon as you call so the choice is easier for your dog.

This video from Emily Larlham/KikoPup talks more about developing a reliable recall via positive reinforcement, and gives some extra tips.

Do I have to use treats forever?

No, but you should continue to reward your dog with something that he values, most of the time. That doesn’t have to be a treat - it can be play, a chase game, sincere and enthusiastic praise, or a rubdown or other petting that your dog really likes. (If your dog says “meh” about petting, then it doesn’t count!)

There will be times that you really don’t have anything your dog values. If you’re rewarding your dog 90% of the time, that history of reinforcement will carry you through, and he’ll still come when you call the next time after that. But if your rate of reward drops too low, your dog may very well decide that it’s no longer worth it. (Would you continue going to work Monday through Friday if you only got paid sometimes?)

Can all dogs be safe off leash when hiking or in public?

In a word: no.

If your dog is aggressive toward other dogs or people, they should not be off leash even if there’s only a small chance that another person or dog will appear. The fallout is too dangerous.

If your dog has a high prey drive, they may not reach off leash reliability in nature - though here are links to training through this issue.

If you have a scenthound or similar dog who is highly motivated to follow scents and tracks, they too may not be reliable off leash.

All these dogs can still get exercise and decompression walks thanks to a long line (and possibly a muzzle).

If your dog is just an impulsive adolescent, keep training and give him time to mature! It’s common for dogs in the 6 - 24 month range to struggle with recall.

Coming When Called (Recall), Part 1

“Recall” is the fancy word that trainers use to mean “coming when called.” I’ll be using that term because it’s short and sweet! Here is how to start the foundation training.

Rules of Recall

Before you even start training your dog to come, you must understand and be ready to follow these rules.!

• Your recall word is a sacred word. You should only use it when you are consciously doing recall training.

  • If your dog has already learned to ignore the word “come,” start over with teaching a brand new word. Some examples are: “pronto,” “hurry,” “rush,” “ándale.”

• Use high value rewards - special treats like fresh meat, string cheese, a peanut-butter filled Kong, a new squeaky tennis ball, a game of chase, or anything else your dog will do back flips for.

  • Patting your dog on the head or giving him a dry biscuit won’t cut it!

  • During the initial training, don’t call your dog if you don’t have a high value reward.

• Don't call your dog, and then do something he doesn't like, such as giving him a bath, trimming his nails, or putting him away because you're leaving the house.

  • If you’re in that situation, go to your dog and get him, rather than ruining your recall word.

• Only call your dog when you think he'll successfully come (during the training phase). If you're just starting, don't call him when he's in the middle of sniffing a gopher hole or playing with his best doggy friend.

  • You’ll build on a history of success as you raise the difficulty level one step at a time. Don’t be in a rush to call him away from big distractions.

• Do mostly “surprise reps,” when your dog doesn't know that you have the high value reward on hand.

Teaching the recall

Once you’ve agreed to follow the Rules of Recall, you’ll start actually training your dog. The most important part is laying the foundation. You want to create a strong, positive response to the recall word - so strong that it's automatic for your dog to turn back to you. In short, you are teaching your dog that every time he hears “Fido, come!” he’s about to get a PARTY!!

1. Prep your high value reward. Do this when your dog isn't watching, OR, if he’s already noticed, just wait until he's forgotten about it.

2. Start off close to your dog.

3. Call your dog using your sacred word. Call nice and loud, as if he were far away!

4. Immediately after you call, start the PARTY!! Talk to your dog in an excited voice as you back up away from him, encouraging him to keep following you. Feed 3 amazing treats in a row, or play tug, or toss a toy behind you after you back up. (This helps imprint your dog on the idea of coming to you after he hears the cue.)

   • Do not repeat the recall cue (eg “come”) as you are talking to your dog - he’s already come to the party!

5. Repeat the steps above until you see that your dog gets excited and runs over when he hears the recall cue.

Below is a video that shows the foundation stage - calling your dog, then enthusiastically rewarding with treats, play, or tug. Notice how each time, I first call my dog, then I bring out the reward and talk to him (without repeating “come”). I’m also backing up every single time, to draw him in close.

Extra recall games

Play these games to add extra fun to coming when called, especially during the early stages.

• Chase Me: Many dogs love to run after their owners. Call your dog, and when he looks at you, take off!

• Round Robin: Have family members stand in a circle outside, and take turns calling him. The dog has to pay attention to who actually called him, rather than going to the next person he sees.

• Hide and Seek: Hide from your dog around a corner, or behind the couch or a tree. Make a big fuss when he finds you! (If he’s looking but he’s struggling, you can talk to him to make it easier.)

• Restrained Recalls: Have a friend hold onto your dog, walk away, and then tease him with happy talk and “game on” body language. Then give the official "come” cue, and your friend will release your dog to run to you excitedly!

Leave It, Part 2

In Leave It, Part 1, your dog learned to reliably turn away and look at you when you held food out to your side. It’s now time to expand his understanding of the cue “leave it.”

Remember that no matter what, the exercise will always follow this pattern:

1. The dog notices a “forbidden” item or distraction.

2. You say “leave it.”

3. You wait for your dog to look away from the distraction and give you eye contact. (Block his access to the distraction if needed.)

4. Say “yes!” or click to mark that correct behavior.

5. Reward your dog.

Adding variables

You’re now going to make this training game look different, a little bit at a time, so that your dog will be able to recognize the cue “leave it” in various contexts.

• Instead of holding the hand with treats straight out from your side, hold it a foot lower in the air. If your dog is successful, progressively lower it closer and closer to the dog.

• Place the treats (or other tempting item) on a raised surface, such as a coffee table, counter top, or chair. Keep your hand close to the treats. If the dog tries to eat them, cover them with your hand, and wait for him to remember to give you eye contact instead.

  • Tip: The higher the raised surface, the easier it is for the dog to ignore. Start with taller counter tops, then progress to couch cushions and coffee tables.

• Place the treats (or other tempting item) on the floor. Keep your hand close or be ready to block with your foot. (Just be careful not to kick your dog!)

  • Tip: You can reward by picking up the treat/item and handing it to your dog, or by giving him a different treat from your hand. Do NOT tell your dog to “get it” and help himself to the treat - that will make it more difficult to teach him to continue to ignore the item.

• Practice with a variety of treats and food in your hand, including “people food.” If you want your dog to be able to ignore trash and “people food” on the ground, you need to practice that ahead of time! You can reward your dog by giving him the same food that he’s turning away from, or give him something else from your other hand.

  • Tip: Make sure the reward is as good as, or better than, the distraction. If you're using hot dogs as your distraction, don't try to reward your dog with a dry biscuit treat.

• Practice with small objects in your hand, including both dog toys and items you don't actually want your dog to get at. Reward with treats or by tossing the dog toy.

Troubleshooting

• If your dog can't turn away from the distraction in your hand, raise the hand up again until he is successful a few times, then retry the harder step.

• If your dog tries to get at the treats in your hand, keep it tightly closed. Either wait him out (licking, nibbling, pawing will not be successful!) or raise your hand up again.

• Do NOT repeat the cue “leave it.” Repeating it while your dog continues to ignore the cue will teach him that it's meaningless noise. Instead, make the training easier for him, so he can practice the correct response.

• If you make a mistake and your dog does eat the treat, just go back to an earlier step, get more successes, then retry the harder step.

• If you make a mistake and your dog grabs a forbidden item, stay calm and trade him with the “drop it” cue. Do not make a big deal out of it, or the dog might get excited and run away with the item, or guard it.

Adding difficulty and reliability

After all that, you're in the final stages of teaching your dog to reliably respond to the cue “leave it,” no matter what the distraction is or where you are!

• Ask your dog to continue leaving the distraction: Start as usual, and reward your dog for giving eye contact after you cue “leave it.” Then wait, and see if he either a) continues to look at you instead of the distraction, or b) glances at the distraction but then looks at you again. Reward either choice.

  • If instead he tries to help himself, repeat the cue “leave it” or block him.

  • After a few reps of this, remove the distraction, OR remove your dog from the area, OR give your dog something else to do while you continue to monitor so he doesn’t help himself to the “forbidden” item.

• Do “surprise reps”: Place the treats (or object) out on a raised surface or the floor, wait for your dog to happen upon them, cue “leave it,” and reward when he gives eye contact.

  • Tip: Make sure you set the the treats out in such a way that you will be able to cover them with a hand or foot if needed. You don't want your dog to hear “leave it” right as he dives in and eats the forbidden food.

• Drop a treat/item: Deliberately drop a treat in front of your dog. Again, be ready to block if needed. Pick up the treat/item after your dog turns away, so he doesn’t snatch it up afterwards.

• Drop multiple treats/items: Leave the treats/items on the floor and continue dropping more in front of your dog, repeating “leave it” if needed for each dropped item.

• Walk past treats/items on the ground: Previously, your dog was standing still during most of these exercises. Now he needs to turn away and look at you as you are both walking by the distraction. Give a wider berth at first, then get closer as your dog is successful, until he can walk right over top of the distraction.

• Plant distractions in front of your house: At first, you can use objects that your dog is unlikely to pick up, or put food into little plastic containers. This way, if the distraction is too great, he still won't be able to eat it and ruin the training.

• Practice as needed when on walks: At first, be ready to block your dog using a hand or foot if needed. Start with less interesting distractions, like sticks and pebbles, and work up to being able to turn away from a chicken bone on the ground.

Engage-Disengage Game

This is a fantastic technique that I often use to teach a dog to notice something stressful or exciting (the “trigger”), then voluntary turn away. Some example situations in which I might use the Engage-Disengage Game are:

• Barking and/or lunging toward other dogs when on leash.

• Barking at activity outside the fence or window.

• Wanting to chase other animals, like squirrels and cats.

• Wanting to chase bicycles.

• Having a hard time passing people without jumping.

Why is this useful?

This game provides the dog with a specific alternative behavior that they can perform instead of lunging, barking, and so on.

For anxious dogs, it gives them a greater sense of control over the situation and thus helps reframe it into a fun game.

It also gives the owner more insight into how their dog is feeling about the trigger (did the dog disengage promptly, or after a delay? Are the dog’s movements fluid and controlled, or fast and frantic? Is the dog even able to disengage on his own without help?).

How to train it

I often begin training with straight desensitization and counter conditioning exercises, but then progress to using the Engage-Disengage Game. There are two stages to this:

Stage 1:

1. Wait for your dog to notice the trigger. (Avoid pointing at it or telling the dog to look - that makes him look more at you!)

2. Mark (with a clicker or “yes!”) as soon as he looks at the trigger (engages).

3. Hand him the treat so that his head turns back toward you to eat it.

4. Repeat this stage until the dog is quickly looking back at you when you click/“yes”.

Stage 2:

1. Let the dog look at the trigger for a few seconds and wait.

2. Mark and reward as soon as the dog looks away (disengages) from the trigger.

3. If your dog does not disengage within 5 seconds, go back to stage 1.

Here is a lovely graphic from Alice Tong that explains the Engage-Disengage Game in detail.

If you prefer learning via video, here is one from Charleston Animal Society explaining how to teach this exercise, and here is another one from Bravo Dog Training & Behaviour.

Note that all of this training should be done with your dog below threshold - meaning he is able to notice the trigger without lunging, jumping, barking, whining, etc. Otherwise, he is rehearsing the behaviors we don’t want him to do, and he’s not in the right state of mind for learning calm behavior.

In action

Here is an example video of Georgia performing the Engage-Disengage Game with me while looking at another dog at PetSmart. (Yes, Georgia was very leash reactive before her training started!)

Here is a video of a dog fully trained in the Engage-Disengage (or “Look at That”) Game going for a stroll and “pointing out” potential triggers to his person.