Intro to Desensitization & Counter-Conditioning

Here are a number of resources that explain the processes of desensitization and counter-conditioning in training. These are among the most simple and effective techniques for changing behavior, especially when that behavior is motivated by underlying fear or anxiety. Please watch these first two videos:

The Basic Process of Desensitization & Counterconditioning For Your Dog | Dog Training

Counter Conditioning: a Visual Explanation

 

Here are the most important takeaways:

  • You must break your final goal down into small steps. For example, for dogs who don’t like getting into the car, you may work on first getting within a few feet of the car with all the doors closed, then approaching while the back door is open, then taking treats from the ledge where the door opens, then off the back seat, and so on.

  • At each step, your dog should be enjoying the training. If he is reacting negatively (such as running away, being wary of the treat, growling, or barking), that means that you need to go back to an earlier step.

  • Do not move on from your current step until you see that your dog has a happy response (such as wagging his tail, looking at you expectantly, or running to you every time he hears the trigger).

  • We are most likely going to be using lots of treats during this training - here are tips about choosing healthy, effective treats.

  • If you are properly breaking down the goal into small steps, you don’t need to worry that your dog will learn to bark or growl in order to get treats - he’s not rehearsing that behavior anyway, so he’s just learning that trigger = yay, treat!

  • It is critical that you avoid putting your dog into situations he can’t handle. For example, if he tries to bite every time he is picked up, avoid doing so. If he barks wildly every time he hears the doorbell, cover the bell and put a note on your door for people to call you when they arrive instead.

    • For those times that life happens, and your dog starts negatively reacting (barking, growling, lunging, etc), you should get him out of that situation as soon as possible. That might mean that you use treats to distract him. That’s okay, as long as it’s only happening a small percentage of the times that he is exposed to the trigger. The rest of the time, set him up for success with your training sessions.

  • Watch out for trigger stacking:

LR-triggerstacking.jpg
 

Here are videos that show specific examples of behavioral issues being resolved by the use of desensitization and counter-conditioning:

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Using Treats in Training

Why do we use treats for training?

We must use something that will motivate the dog to change his behavior. Although anything that the dog enjoys can be used as a reward - such as playtime, belly rubs, or happy praise - treats are the most convenient in many situations. They allow you to reward many successful training reps within a short amount of time, and you can take them with you wherever you go. They’re also successful motivators for the vast majority of dogs; not all dogs enjoy playing tug, but nearly all love fresh cooked chicken and hot dogs!

 

What kind of treats should I use?

For your standard training treats, the rule of thumb is small and stinky!

  • Size of a pea or smaller, so that your dog doesn’t fill up quickly, and they’re ready to get right back to work.

    • Most commercially-produced dog treats can be easily broken into 2-3 smaller pieces, so that you get more “bang for your buck” both financially and in terms of calories. This is particularly important for small dogs.

  • Think smelly fish or meat-flavored treats rather than dry biscuits.

 

High value treats

Sometimes you want to use “high value” treats to really motivate your dog (such as for coming when called from a distraction) or do more effective counter-conditioning. Examples of foods that are commonly "high value” to a dog are:

  • plain boiled or rotisserie chicken

  • hot dogs

  • other cooked meats

  • string cheese

  • freeze-dried liver or other organ meats

  • homemeade tuna fudge

Keep in mind that your dog is the one who gets to decide what is “high value” - so experiment with different foods to see what he likes best!

 

Using balanced dog food as treats

If you’re doing lots of intensive training, you have a small dog or puppy, or your dog needs to lose weight, it’s extra important that your treats be small and healthy or low calorie (such as boiled chicken). But another way to keep them fit and healthy is to use real, complete and balanced dog food as training treats.

  • If you’re lucky enough to have a chow hound that loves his kibble, then skip the food bowl and use all (or most) of his kibble for training!

    • For extra-small pups, you can divide the kibble into even smaller pieces by soaking it in water first. Here’s a video showing this off.

    • You can make the kibble more exciting by soaking it in chicken or bone broth, too.

Freshpet food rolls on display at a pet store

You can take all of your dog’s daily portion of food and put it into a container on the counter, and pull from it throughout the day as needed. Then you can be sure that your dog isn’t getting any extra calories.

 

Food in tubes and pouches

This is a great way to deliver treats to dogs that are very chompy, or when you have a small or overweight dog and portion control is extra important. You gently squeeze the tube/pouch so that only a tiny amount comes out at a time, and your dog licks it up. Some options are:

Portuguese Water Dog licking at treat pouch

Mila licking at a tuna-flavored cat treat in a pouch

Nulo pouch of pureed treat containing beef, beef broth, beef liver, and kale
Reusable pouch of lickable peanut butter for dogs
Reusable pouch of fish-based lickable cat treat
 

Carrying treats around

When you have a brand new pup at home, or you’re doing a lot of training in a short amount of time (such as when we meet for private lessons), you’ll want to have a way to keep all those treats in an easily-accessible spot. Pockets end up filled with gross crumbs, and plastic bags make distracting crinkly noises and slow you down, so my favorite solution is a treat pouch. I use the Doggone Good! Trek N Train Treat Pouch, which has a magnetic closure that is easy to operate with one hand. Drawstring treat pouches and fanny packs can also work well. Squeeze tubes have caps to keep things clean, and you can put them into a large pocket or pouch, or just hold them in your hand while walking.

 

But my dog gets too excited with treats!

We can teach him to have better manners! Here is a great video on teaching a dog not to “mug” you:

If your dog does well until you’re handing him a treat, and then he jumps, use the “slow treats” game:

  • Slowly lower the treat toward your dog.

  • If he keeps “four on the floor” the whole time the treat is coming toward him, then you can let him take it from your hand.

  • If he jumps up at any point, immediately lift the treat farther away. Resume slowly lowering it when he has four paws on the floor.

  • You can use this tactic any time you are handing your dog a treat, even while working on something else (like a stay or heel). You can also use it when handing your dog a toy or chew.

If your dog doesn’t jump but uses his teeth too much when taking treats:

  • Feed the treats lower down, so that he lowers his head to eat them rather than reaching up. This makes nipping less likely.

  • Move your hand slowly and steadily - if you start to yank your hand back the moment that your dog is closing in, he will start to snatch more because he thinks he needs to be fast.

  • Hold the treat firmly in your fist or between your thumb and other fingers. If your dog is too rough, don’t let the treat go! Hold your hand still and wait for him to soften up, using his lips or tongue. Praise and release the treat then, to reward your dog for being gentle.

Sawyer learns to take treats politely, no teeth on the human's hand. The video is slowed down 20% so that it is easier to see what is happening.

 

Kids giving treats

Children often have a hard time with the advice above - they get scared of the dog’s teeth and snatch their hands away quickly. This jerky movement is exciting to the dog, and makes him think that he has a small window of time in which he needs to grab the treat - thus making him less careful with his teeth! So have children follow these suggestions instead:

  • Feed the treat with their hand completely open and flat, with the treat in the middle. (If you’re familiar with feeding horses or other livestock, this is the same advice.)

  • Place the treat in a small bowl or plate that is then handed to the dog.

  • Place the treat on the floor instead of feeding from the hand.

  • Toss the treat to the dog. (Note that for some dogs, chasing the treat will be too exciting and lead to more rowdy behavior, so this is not recommended for all dogs.)

 
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Puppy Schedules

Why should you get your pup on a schedule?

New puppy owners often make the mistake of letting their puppies run wild until they exhaust themselves. This is problematic because puppies who are overly tired or overstimulated are much more likely to bite, chase, bark, growl, and generally show grumpy, aggressive, and/or frantic behaviors. It is better for the pup (and for the human!) to encourage them to settle down for regular naps before they practice those behaviors. You also want to make sure that these are deep, restorative naps - a doze here and there, that is frequently interrupted, will not improve your pup’s behavior.

Potty training is also much easier if your pup is on a consistent schedule!

 

How do I figure out the right schedule for my pup?

For an 8 week old puppy, I start with a rule of thumb of:

  • wake up and immediately take out to potty

  • provide a meal (in a bowl or - better yet - in a food toy, scattered around for them to sniff out, or as rewards during training)

  • provide playtime/training/exercise for 1 hour (with a potty break in the middle)

  • take out to potty

  • nap for 30 minutes - 2 hours

  • repeat

Of course you’ll adjust as needed. Higher energy pups (such as herding breeds and terriers) will need more time to tire out - BUT watch out for overstimulation leading to behaviors like nipping, barking, or chasing other pets. Lower energy pups (such as growing giant breeds and many small breed lap dogs) will need longer naps.

Extend nap time if your puppy was very tired out (such as from an extended training session or play time with another puppy), and during parts of the day he tends to be more tired. For example, it’s normal for dogs to snooze longer in the middle of the day (from roughly late morning to early afternoon).

Keep in mind that puppies typically need 18-20 hours of sleep a day!

 

Helping your puppy settle for a nap

Puppy sleeping soundly in a crate.

Puppy sleeping soundly in a crate.

  • Use a crate or pen to create a small, calm area for your pup to nap in.

    • Many puppies settle more easily if they can’t see activity going on around them, so try covering most of the crate/pen with a blanket.

    • You may need to place their crate/pen in a quiet area of the house, such as a bedroom. (If your puppy cannot handle being separated from you, that is a separate problem that needs specialized training to address.)

  • Give your pup a “fresh” toy (one they haven’t seen in a couple of days) and at least one chew item or food toy when you put them away, especially if they were already getting over stimulated and need help self-soothing.

  • Providing a large plush toy to cuddle with also helps them relax and fall asleep. (I believe that it reminds them of their littermates.)

  • Some puppies benefit from you putting in an item (such as a blanket) that came from the breeder’s home, or a piece of clothing that smells like their new owner.

  • You can also play calm music and try Adaptil to further help fussy pups settle.

  • If your pup whines or barks intermittently, ignore them and they will learn to self-soothe and fall asleep.

    • Note that if your dog is having a panic attack - barking non-stop, trying to escape their crate/pen, hurting themselves, or soiling their bed - that is an anxiety problem that needs specialized training to address.

 

Extending free time as your pup grows

You can extend awake time if your puppy has recently pottied and is still peppy without being overstimulated. If they haven’t pottied recently, use strict supervision or a tether/crate/pen to discourage accidents, and take them out again in 5-10 minutes. Then give more free time until the pup is tired or it’s time for the next potty trip. If you see that your pup is now consistently holding their bladder/bowels for a longer period (say, 90 minutes instead of 1 hour), you can move their potty schedule accordingly.

If your pup is having accidents during free time, divide it up with more trips outside and strictly supervise indoors.

Some “zoomies” (racing around with a burst of energy) in the evening are normal. If they’re a problem because your pup gets more nippy, plan ahead and provide appropriate exercise and enrichment to channel his energy. If they’re really out of control, that usually means your pup didn’t get enough exercise earlier in the day, so adjust your schedule in the future.

 
Happy puppy and owner!

Happy puppy and owner!

Final notes

Put your pup to bed and get them up in the morning at a consistent time, even on weekends.

Most 8-12 week old pups will need 1-2 potty trips outside overnight. If your pup lets you know they need to go out by fussing, you can take them out then. If they potty in their crate/pen without warning you, you’ll need to set an alarm so that you can get them out before then. Reward your pup with a treat for pottying outside, then put them back into their crate/pen without any extra playtime or cuddles.

Many puppies will have trouble regulating their behavior if they’re home alone for 8-10 hours and then awake for 6-8 hours with you; use family, friends, neighbors, walkers, and trainers to get the puppy out for exercise and enrichment while you’re at work.

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Muzzles

Why a muzzle?

Muzzles often get a bad rap because they make a dog look “scary.” However they are an important tool for keeping dogs - and people - safe. There are multiple reasons that a dog may wear a muzzle, for example:

Cai wore a muzzle when he went to the emergency room for an eye injury.

Cai wore a muzzle when he went to the emergency room for a painful eye injury.

  • The dog is fearful of strangers or dogs approaching. The muzzle not only keeps this dog from being able to bite someone, it also acts as a signal for others to give him space.

  • The dog may be friendly and social most of the time, but bite in specific contexts, such as when guarding food or his owner.

  • The dog may be too rough with biting during play, but otherwise play nicely. (One of my own dogs fits this category.)

  • The dog may bite when in pain. (One of my dogs needs to be muzzled at the vet’s if he is injured because he would bite the vet.)

  • The dog may be in the habit of picking up trash or other unsafe items and trying to eat them.

  • The dog may have severe allergies or another medical condition that could be triggered by eating things off the ground, or eating another dog’s treats.

  • The dog may be required to wear a muzzle while traveling or due to breed-specific legislation.

Whatever the reason, muzzles can be a lifesaving tool.

 

What kind of muzzle should I use?

If your dog will be wearing the muzzle for more than a few minutes, you should use a “basket” muzzle. This is the type that creates a “cage” around the dog’s jaws. It mostly prevents the dog from biting anyone*, but still allows him to eat treats, drink water, and pant to cool himself down.

Do not use a “soft” or “grooming” muzzle that forces the dog’s mouth shut - this is dangerous because it does not allow the dog to pant to cool down. It may also still allow the dog to nip with his front teeth!

* Note that determined dogs may still manage to nip, bite, or grab objects through softer basket muzzles. Here is an article that compares muzzle types, and will help you choose an appropriate muzzle for your dog’s temperament and specific needs.

Here is a video from dog aggression expert Michael Shikashio on choosing an appropriate type and size of muzzle for your individual dog:

 

Where can I buy a muzzle?

Terra wears a muzzle because she can be too rough during play.

Terra wears a muzzle because she can be too rough during play.

There are a few brands that you can find in big box stores, however these may not fit your particular dog well, especially if your dog has a particularly flat, long, or wide snout (for example, French Bulldog, Greyhound, or pit bull-type). Always measure your dog’s snout rather than going by the “suggested size” for a particular breed. For example, the Baskerville Ultra is easy to find but has limited sizing options.

If your dog is full grown, I recommend purchasing a muzzle that is more accurately sized for your specific dog. That will require getting measurements of your dog’s snout, head, and neck. If you are ordering online, check the vendor’s recommendations for where and how to measure for their own products.

 

Wire muzzles - good for high bite risk dogs, with the one caveat that getting “punched” by a wire muzzle still hurts:

Vinyl muzzles - good for biters and scavengers:

Solid, non-flexible, injection-molded polyethylene (plastic) - good for biters and have an optional “scavenger guard”:

Custom biothane muzzles - for lower bite risk dogs; coverage can be fuller for scavengers or more open for increased airflow:

 

Teaching your dog to wear a muzzle

Now that you have your appropriately-sized muzzle, you need to teach your dog to be comfortable wearing it. Unfortunately most dogs will scratch and fuss if you just put something on their face and head out. Teaching them to be okay with it is not difficult, as long as you break the process down into little steps and make it fun along the way - that’s desensitization!

Here is a how-to video by Emily Larlham:

Here is another video by Chirag Patel:

Here is one from Sarah McManaman that focuses just on the process of buckling the muzzle behind the dog’s head:

 
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Exercise

Many dog owners struggle to give their dogs enough exercise. Bored dogs who are full of energy are more likely to engage in nuisance behaviors like jumping, chewing, barking, digging, and pulling on leash. Here is a variety of ideas to help you find the right form of physical exercise for your dog. Note that depending on your dog’s personality and favorite activities, some of these - like fetching a ball - can wind your dog up rather than sating and calming him. You may choose to avoid certain activities for that reason, or follow them with a more calming activity like a decompression walk, tricks training, or chewing on a bone. Make sure to balance physical exercise with mental enrichment.

One other note of caution is that if your dog is not yet full grown, you should be careful with activities that are high impact or cause repetitive stress, as this can lead to growth plate injuries. If you want to take your dog for long bouts of exercise like jogging or running beside a bicycle, make sure to follow a conditioning plan and increase intensity over time, just as you would with a human athlete.

 

Running toy play

  • Fetch: chasing a tossed toy (often a ball), then bringing it back to you to toss again. Try a Chuck It to add distance to your throws.

    • If your dog doesn’t pick up the ball, try training a retrieve separate from playtime.

    • If your dog picks up the ball but doesn’t bring it toward you, try:

      • Play in a hallway or other corridor that encourages him to come back toward you because he doesn’t have anywhere else to go. Then use a treat or second ball to reward him.

      • After he picks up the ball, run in the other direction so he chases you. Reward with a treat or second ball when he catches up.

      • Attach a string to the ball and use it to gently reel your dog in. Reward with a treat or second ball when he reaches you.

    • If your dog brings the ball back but doesn’t drop it, try “2 ball fetch”:

      • 1. Throw the first ball.

      • 2. When your dog comes back, bring out the second ball and get him excited about it.

      • 3. As soon as he drops the first ball, throw the second one as a reward.

      • 4. Pick up the ball he dropped, and repeat.

    • If your dog brings the ball back but really wants to play tug instead of having you throw it again, try using a ball on a tug rope so that you can tug easily. Teach them to drop it separate from playtime. Examples of balls on a tug rope are the Nero Ball, Beanie Braided Fleece Ball Tug, Kong Squeaker Ball with Throw Rope, Fling Thing Tennis Ball Toy

  • Fetch on an incline: To make it more physically challenging, play on a slope. (Don’t use stairs, as that’s a major tripping/falling hazard when your dog is excited.)

  • Disc/frisbee: Same as fetch, but using a disc. Your dog may prefer this over a ball. Practice tossing the disc so it stays low to the ground, or even rolls along the ground, to discourage wild jumps into the air that may cause injury.

  • Toss a toy and run away: It doesn’t matter whether your dog picks up the toy - just get him sprinting after it, then sprinting back after you! Yes, you’ll be getting exercise as well, but your dog will be covering at least twice as much ground as you.

  • Toss a Lotus Ball or other treat-filled toy: If your dog doesn’t care about toys but enjoys treats, you can teach him how to get a treat out of a Lotus Ball, and get him chasing that.

  • Laser pointer: Some people like to have their dog chase a laser pointer like cats do, but this should be used with extreme caution as dogs are prone to developing compulsive behaviors associated with chasing lights and shadows. Most veterinarians and behaviorists advice against playing with laser pointers.

 

Tugging toy play

  • Go ahead and play tug, but make sure to practice drop it, teach your dog to sit politely instead of jumping up for and snatching at the toy, and only play with dog toys and not random objects.

  • If your dog has only a little interest in toys and you want to encourage him to play, try:

    • Use special “high value” toys like ones that incorporate real rabbit fur or real sheepskin.

    • Put a toy on a string and have it “run away” from your pup, then let him catch it and have it “try to get away.” This stimulates predatory behavior, which is natural for most dogs.

    • Give only very gentle tugs, and let your dog quickly “win.” Fuss over him when he wins the toy.

  • Flirt pole: A flirt pole is a like a giant cat toy or fishing pole for dogs. It allows you to whip a toy along the ground for your dog to chase and tug with. You can purchase a designated flirt pole (small dogs, big dogs) or create your own by purchasing a lunge whip at the feed store and attaching any toy dog to the end.

  • Spring pole: For serious tuggers! If your dog loves to play tug so much that he doesn’t even need a human on the other end of the toy, you can hang a metal spring from a tree or other solid object and attach a strong line and toy at the end. Your dog can tug and tug against the metal spring.

 

Indoor activities

  • Hide and seek: Hide from your dog while he is distracted, waiting in a stay, or being held by another family member. Then call him and let him run around and try to find you! This works well with multiple family members hiding and taking turns calling the dog.

  • Recall round robin: Make a big circle with family members and take turns calling your dog back and forth.

  • Toss treats or kibble: Let your dog chase down each piece as you toss them first to one side, then the other.

  • Indoor agility: Set up an obstacle course using furniture, cardboard boxes, and blankets! Try having your dog go under, over, through, between, and around various items. For example, he might go between the couch and wall, then under a draped blanket, then around a bar stool, then over a broomstick propped horizontally on books, then through a cardboard box tunnel!

 

Backyard activities

  • Backyard agility: As above, you can create your own obstacles that your dog will go under, over, through, between, and around. You can use items you already have, like broomsticks, flower pots, and deck chairs. If you like creating things, you can find tutorials online for creating PVC jumps and weave poles and wooden dog walks and a-frames. See a video with more ideas here. Or you can purchase a home agility kit online.

  • Digging: If your dog loves to dig up your veggies and flower beds, consider creating a designated digging area for him! You can use a plastic pool or create a wooden frame and fill it with play sand. To help him learn to dig only in that area, bury toys and chews for him to find.

  • Pool: Swimming is a great form of exercise. To help your dog get comfortable with the pool, practice getting in and out at the shallow end before you expect him to actually swim. If even that is scary, or you have a small dog, practice with a small plastic children’s pool first.

 

Outings

  • Swimming: You can find areas to let your dog paddle around or swim at Putah Creek by downtown Winters, Lake Berryessa, or travel farther out to a dog-friendly beach.

  • Hiking: Whether on or off leash, a hike in a natural area with lots of new scents beats a walk through the neighborhood any day. Check out Rockville Hills Regional Park, Browns Valley Open Space Preserve, Lagoon Valley and Pena Adobe, Rush Ranch Open Space, and Grasslands Regional Park.

  • Park: Even dogs who have trouble with coming when called can play at a grassy, open park if they are on a long line.

  • Jogging or running: If you’re just as much of an athlete as your dog, you can go jogging or running together, or have your dog run alongside your bicycle. (It’s recommended to use a Springer or similar dog attachment for your bike so that they can’t veer in front of you.)

  • Bikejoring, pulling scooter, carting: A strong, fit dog can pull your bicycle (called bikejoring), scooter, or a cart for exercise. This requires foundational training to start, stop, turn left and right, and ignore distractions.

 

Playmates

  • Dog park: The dog park is what many people immediately think of when they want their dog to have a romp and play. This can be a good outlet, but should be used with caution. Because there is no screening of who goes into the dog park, and not all owners are vigilant or knowledgeable, there can be lots of bullying or even fighting. In addition, the entrance to the park can be overwhelming, with everyone mobbing newcomers. The dog park should only be used for dogs who are already friendly and stable in a variety of social situations. Small dogs should not mix with unknown large dogs for safety. Here is more information on making outings to the dog park successful.

  • Play dates: Prearranged play dates make an excellent alternative to the free-for-all of the dog park. Set up one on one dates for dogs that your dog has already met and gets along with, or ones you think will be a good match. If you don’t know anyone among your friends, family, or neighbors, try searching for like-minded folks on NextDoor or local Facebook groups.

  • Group walks: For dogs that aren’t into play but do like to hang out with their doggy friends, arrange to go on a walk together, in the neighborhood or at a park.

 

Dog sports

There are many, many organized dog sports to dabble in, and multiple organizations that host competitions. You’ll want to ask around to find what is local to you. These are just a few of the sports that emphasize physical exertion on the dog’s part:

  • Agility: An obstacle course with jumps, tunnels, a-frame, weave poles, and more.

  • Lure coursing: The dogs chase after a “lure” (usually a white plastic bag) that is animated via a wire, and runs away like a small prey animal.

  • Weight pulling: Strong dogs pull a weighed-down cart or sled.

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Update for training services due to COVID-19 restrictions

Update as of 01/03/2021:

After carefully reviewing the statewide recommendations and guidelines for “limited service” businesses, I feel comfortable returning to meeting clients in person, with the following precautions in place:

  • Everyone prevent must wear a well-fitted mask that covers their nose and mouth.

  • We will stay outdoors during the entire appointment.

  • I will stay at least 6 feet, but preferably 10 feet away from clients.

Appointments over Zoom are still available for clients outside of my service area, or those who are high-risk.

Current as of 12/11/2020:

New client assessments NOT for board & train: These will be taking place over Zoom. See tips on setup below. If it will be difficult for you to show your dog's "problem" behaviors on camera, please take videos ahead of time and send me links as early as you can.

New client assessments FOR board & train: Since it is necessary for your dog to meet my own dogs and make sure that everyone will be comfortable together, you will still be bringing your dog over. However I will have you put your dog in my fenced yard, and I will do the introductions on my own. You are welcome to watch from your car. We will do a separate appointment over Zoom for the discussion portion of the assessment.

Private lessons which are NOT working on leash reactivity: These will be taking place over Zoom. Feel free to send me videos with updates on your dog's behavior between lessons, especially if it will be difficult to show the relevant behavior while on camera.

Private lessons which ARE working on leash reactivity: These are going to be tricky to do over video. The easiest way is to have an extra family member or friend hold a phone and point it at the dog and handler in training. If you don't have an extra person, I recommend using a waist leash so that you don't have to use one hand to hold your dog. You should also have a treat pouch or pocket that is easy to get into - no plastic bags that require two hands. (That makes for better training anyway!) If this really doesn't seem doable for you, we can reschedule until COVID is less prevalent in our area... but I expect that to be a long time from now, and I honestly think that it's better to get out and train now even if the format will be somewhat awkward.

Private lessons at pick up from board & train: I will put your dog in the yard and your supplies by my front door at pick up time. We will schedule a separate lesson over Zoom in place of the one that would usually take place at pick up.

Dropping off for board & train: I'll have you put your dog in the yard and leave your supplies by my front door. Please call or text when you arrive (don't knock on the door).


Tips for setting up Zoom lessons:

Here is a video made by one of my colleagues on how to join a meeting.

You will need:

  • A computer/laptop, tablet, or smartphone with a camera and speakers. Make sure you have it plugged in or fully charged. Ask your family to avoid streaming or doing their own video chats during the lesson, so your connection isn’t slowed down. (Of course, ideally your family would be participating in the lesson!)

  • A place to set your equipment that will allow me to see yourself and your dog as you practice. It helps to put it higher up, like on a shelf or a stack of books. Make sure the area is quiet (no radio, tv, or other pets distracting you), and has good lighting.

  • Lots of small, tasty treats for your dog, and toys if he enjoys them.

  • Your dog’s leash, collar, harness, or other equipment.

Uploading videos to YouTube: You will need to have a Google account (as Google owns YouTube).

Here is a video tutorial on how to upload your own video from a PC.

And from a phone.

Please let me know if you have any questions or concerns about the change in format. Thank you for your understanding and help in keeping everyone safe during this difficult time.

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Dogs and Babies/Kids

Here are my favorite resources on raising dogs and babies/kids together.

 
 

Videos:

DOG STARS (Bite prevention video for kids!) (song on dog safety for gradeschoolers)

I Speak Doggie (song on dog safety for preschoolers)

How to kiss a dog (how to safely give “kisses”)

Demo: petting a puppy without getting bit (how to calmly pet “collar-to-tail”)

Does Your Dog REALLY Want to be Petted? (body language and consent test info)

Dog Body Language - what your dog is desperately trying to tell you! (body language info)

Stop the 77 (examples of “cute” dog and kid photos in which the dogs are showing stressed body language)

 
 

Webinars & On-Demand Classes:

Family Paws has two webinars that can be accessed at any time: 1) Dogs & Storks: Preparing families with dogs for life with baby, 2) Dogs & Toddlers: Preparing families with dogs for life with toddler

Pooch Parenting also has several on-demand, self-paced classes.

 
 
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Enrichment

Enrichment refers to activities your dog can engage in that provide mental exercise and entertainment. It is a critical part of providing for your dog’s needs, especially if you have a “busy” dog who gets into trouble when bored. Many of these activities can be prepped ahead of time, so that you can dole them out while you’re busy with work or childcare. Read through the list and pick out what makes the most sense for your dog. I have personally tried all of the products that I have linked to!

 

Food Toys

Stuffing a toy with food is a classic way to provide enrichment. The most well known food toy is the Kong. I generally buy one size larger than the recommended one from the company. If you need a more durable version, try the black Kong. Other hollow toys you can easily stuff with food, thanks to the large hole at the top, are the West Paw Toppl and Planet Dog Double Tuff. Start your dog out on:

  • Easy Mode: Fill with dry treats/kibble, which will fall out easily as your dog paws at the toy.

  • Medium Difficulty: Combine the dry stuff with foods that will “glue” themselves in.

    • Peanut butter (make sure it does not contain xylitol)

    • Cream cheese

    • Yogurt

    • Canned dog or cat food

    • Mushed banana or cooked sweet potato

    • Canned pumpkin

    • Ground raw meat or dog food

    • Dehydrated dog food mixed with a little water (eg Honest Kitchen)

  • Hard: Put the toy in the freezer overnight, and hand to your pup still frozen. If you’re worried about the contents of a Kong spilling out, plug the bottom hole with peanut butter first, then place upside down in a cup in the freezer.

Another type of toy that you can fill with a combo of kibble and goodies is the “slow bowl,” like the Outward Hound Slo Bowl. Don’t be shy about just spreading yummy goop across the grooves with a knife - it’s dishwasher safe. This can be frozen, as well.

A variant on the food stuffable toy is the Lickimat, a rubbery mat with little “nubs” all over the surface. You can smear canned food, yogurt, peanut butter, cream cheese, or other spreadables on it, then the dog will lick, lick, lick until it’s all gone. Put into the freezer to make it last longer. The repetitive licking can have a soothing affect on anxious dogs and puppies.

For dogs that go nuts for plain kibble (lucky you!), you can feed them via kibble dispensers. Good examples are the Kong Wobbler, PetSafe Kibble Nibble, and Omega Paw Tricky Treat Ball. Of course, you can mix in some small treats to make it even more interesting for them. Some brands of freeze-dried raw food may fit inside as well, such as Instinct Freeze Dried Raw Toppers or Stella & Chewy’s Freeze Dried Toppers.

Is your dog really destructive? Try a treat/kibble dispenser made of PVC from Ulti-Mutt! (You could also make your own!)

 

Edible Chews

This refers to anything that is safe for your dog to completely consume as he chews on it. Many of these are many of real animal parts, making them very tasty and popular among dogs.

  • Less durable examples - for moderate chewers: bully sticks (much cheaper when purchased in bulk, and available in thicker/longer pieces for harder chewers), Earth Animal No-Hide Chews, dried beef tendons, pig ears and cow ears, Etta Says Premium Crunchy Chews.

  • More durable examples - for heavy chewers*: smoked knuckle bones, cow hooves, elk antlers, water buffalo horns, Ware Gorilla Chew (very dense wood), Himalayan Hard Cheese Chews, Etta Says Long Lasting Deluxe Chews,

    • *Note that some of these are tough enough that they could lead to cracked teeth, especially if your dog likes to put the chew in the back of his mouth and crunch down hard with his molars. Watch your dog’s chewing style - it’s safer if he’s slowly wearing at the toy instead.

  • Frozen chews: freeze low sodium broth in ice cubes (try a large silicone ice cube tray) or LickiMat Wobble as a bowl; you can get creative and freeze in layers so that treats or kibble are suspended inside. You could even feed your dog’s whole meal frozen into a bowl for hot days!

  • Raw meaty bones: beef marrow bones are a classic treat that can be purchased from your butcher or grocery store. You can also feed necks, wings, and feet from chickens, ducks, or turkeys, or even half or whole raw chickens. Many people feed their dogs entirely via raw meat, bones, and organs. Feeling nervous about giving raw food to your dog? Here's a great podcast on the topic. Excel Pet Pantry is a local company that does monthly deliveries of raw food as well as other products.

  • Fresh wheat grass: eating too much is likely to make your dog throw up, but you can buy small pots of these (usually sold for cats!) and let your dog have nibbles here and there for entertainment.

Pet Food Express in Davis has a great selection of chews and good prices. They are my favorite place to shop locally!

 

Creative Toys

Beyond tug and fetch!

  • Provide items that it's okay for your dog to tear up, such as:

    • cardboard boxes (thin boxes from cracker/cookie packaging and tissue boxes are great for smaller dogs)

    • junk mail

    • cheap stuffed animals (as long as he won't eat the stuffing)

    • old t-shirts or jeans cut into strips then braided tightly together

    • the Hol-ee Roller (mini, small, medium, large) can be stuffed with pieces of fabric, other toys, and/or large chews for the dog to chew on and pull out ( and here’s a “tough” version for power chewers)

    • if you’re a sewer, you can place a squeaker or treats into a small square of fabric, then hide that within another square of fabric, and so on, like a Russian doll of fabric layers that your dog can tear apart

  • Create a “busy box” of all kinds of things that the dog is allowed to chew on and tear up and play with. Use a plastic bin or cardboard box. Credit to my friend Tania Lanfer for introducing me to this idea. Here is a video of her dog Pira playing with one.

  • If your dog likes balls, try a giant Jolly ball. For variety, here’s a heavy duty version, one with a handle for tugging or throwing, one with a rope attached, and an egg-shaped one that will roll unpredictably. I’ve found that Jolly balls tend to be popular with herding breeds, and bully breeds that like very physical play, along with the ball-obsessed.

  • Hide your dog’s toys so they have to hunt for them; it adds a mental challenge to your regular games.

  • Rather than having all your dog's toys available all the time, rotate them so that old toys feel new and exciting again.

  • Bring home a sturdy stick for your pup to chew on and play with.

 

Scent Games

Dogs have amazing noses and love using them. Intensive sniffing, as when they are hunting for something, provides not just entertainment but a good mental workout.

  • Snuffle mat: the dense fringes of fabric allow you to hide kibble or treats, and your dog has to hunt for them.

  • Create your own snuffle mat by balling up a large towel or blanket, and hiding kibble/treats in the fold.

  • Scatter your dog’s food in the grass outside (like a living snuffle mat!).

  • Plant interesting scents in the yard for your dog to find. Do you have a friend with a pet rat? Ask for a handful of its bedding in a ziplock bag, and let your dog check it out through the opening. Coworker with a horse? Have her rub a rag or towel on the horse for you. You can do this with plants, too: “hey, where did this clump of magnolia flowers or rosemary stems come from?”

  • Nose Work is a formal activity in which you train your dog to find a specific scent (such as birch essential oil) and tell you where it is. Here is an explanation with ways to get you started.

 

Field Trips

Outings to new places provide mental enrichment. A 30 minute trip to someplace new will tire your dog out more than a 30 minute walk around the neighborhood. Places that are usually dog friendly are:

  • Pet stores (Pet Food Express is my favorite)

  • Feed stores (eg, Higby’s, Western Ranch)

  • Hardware stores (the Lowe’s in Vacaville explicitly welcomes pet dogs, but most other hardware stores do as well)

  • Plant nurseries

  • Outdoor cafes

  • JoAnn

  • Many clothing and home goods stores allow pets on a store-by-store policy. Call ahead to ask.

  • If you’re too busy to take your dog on a field trip just for him, take him with you on errands. Walk around the parking lot of your destination for 15 minutes, then have him wait in the car (if safe to do so) while you take care of business.

Even if you’re walking in your own neighborhood, you can spice up the walk by doing some agility or parkour tricks!

 

Decompression Walks

For dogs that have trouble settling down, I highly recommend decompression walks. These are long walks in natural settings (a school or park lawn will do if “real” nature isn’t available). They may be done on a long line or within a fenced area so that your dog can roam instead of being restricted to 6’. Dog parks don’t count as they increase arousal instead of decreasing it - unless you’re lucky enough to find a time that it’s empty.

Here are two podcasts discussing the benefits of decompression walks: A Decompression Walk Chat, and Decompression Walk Answers. Here is an article on the topic.

“For nearly 15 years I have been recommending that my clients find ways to increase their dogs’ off leash time in nature.... Why? I knew it was best. I saw the results in every single dog. I saw the results in my own. Whether or not something is easily accessible to us is not the deciding factor in its efficacy.

letting their dogs move their bodies freely in nature improves their behavior in daily life, full stop. The list of people who have reached out to me, shared that they were initially angered or frustrated by this advice, and went on to tell me they eventually tried it and will never go back, is a long one.

For some dogs, a long sniffy meander on a long line will serve their behavioral health needs just fine, while another dog might be frustrated beyond belief by that tether and do much better in a smaller space, restricted by fences.

I have mentioned several times that experimenting, trying different iterations and observing your dog’s behavioral effects is the method to use here. This is the only way to know if we are providing “enough” and there is no right answer. Some general guidelines are: younger dogs need more than older dogs, gundogs and herders need more than seems reasonable–again, especially when they are young–and dogs with higher-stress personalities tend to have some of the biggest positive outcomes. Companion and service bred dogs of many breed varieties need the least (and this is on purpose!). “Enough” is a moving target, and constant evaluation is required. If you are a behavior professional making off leash exercise a part of your behavior change plans, measure the behaviors you are trying to reduce and take good data on the progress. Your clients will be best motivated by results. ”
— Sarah Stremming

Do your best to stay out long enough that your dog actually slows down and relaxes. Remember that this is easier to achieve if you are able to go frequently, even if each outing is then shorter.

On days off, drive farther away if needed, to access hiking spots or just go somewhere new. Search for dog-friendly trails on AllTrails.com.

If your dog needs a private space because he’s fearful or reactive, check out SniffSpot, which allows people to rent out their yards or land for walking. Or try posting on NextDoor, Facebook, or other social media to locate neighbors willing to lend out their yard or land.

 

Tricks Training

Tricks training is a great way to tire your dog mentally. Here is a YouTube playlist full of tricks tutorials.

You can also train for a specific dog sport, which gives you concrete goals and structure. Competing allows you to show off your dog’s training progress and spend time with like-minded people. But even if you never compete, structured training allows you to keep progressing, and therefore mentally challenging your pup. Examples of dog sports are:

  • Agility: an obstacle course with jumps, tunnels, a-frame, weave poles, and more

  • Competition Obedience: requires precise heeling, stays, understanding sit vs down vs stand, retrieving a dumbbell, recognizing your scent on an item, and more

  • Rally O: heeling, sit vs down vs stand, stays, and more as you progress around a course

  • Musical freestyle: choreograph a series of tricks to music of your choice

  • Rally-FrEe: a combination of musical freestyle and rally o; you and your dog perform tricks like spins and leg weaves as you progress around a course

  • Treibball: also called “urban herding,” it allows your dog to “herd” giant inflated balls into a soccer net

  • Herding: actually herding real animals, most commonly sheep, goats, ducks, or cattle

  • Tracking: your dog learns to follow a scent trail that someone walked earlier, from start to finish

  • Nose Work: your dog learns to hunt down an odor (usually essential oils), similar to detection dogs

 

Interactive/Puzzle Food Toys

These are food toys that require your dog to figure out a specific way to acquire the food inside. Unlike most of the food toys listed up top, these require close supervision to make sure that your dog doesn’t just chew through the wood or plastic instead of solving the puzzle! You may also have to help him along in the beginning.

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Puppy Carsickness

Puppies are more likely to get carsick than adult dogs, because the parts of the inner ear used for sensing balance are not yet fully developed. This likely creates a “seasick” feeling. Most will outgrow this eventually, but the anxiety that develops from unpleasant car rides can linger.

 

Common signs of carsickness:

Puppy hiding under seat cover.

Puppy hiding under seat cover.

  • Drooling, repetitive lip licking, gagging, retching, vomiting

  • Panting

  • Whining, barking

  • Sweaty paws

  • Trembling, pacing

  • Gas or diarrhea

  • Hesitance or refusal to get into car, trying to escape from car

 

What you can do to help:

Relaxed and comfortable!

Relaxed and comfortable!

  • Withhold food for a few hours before the car ride, so your dog’s stomach is empty. (Do give water.)

  • Try a few different positions in the car. Most dogs do better when they can see out the front window. On the other hand, some dogs are calmer when they can’t see out.

    • Make sure your dog is safely secured using a seat belt, tether, or crate. A loose dog can distract the driver, and go flying if there’s an accident.

  • Crack the side windows open. (Don’t open the window wide enough for your dog be able to stick his head out - flying debris can hit his eyes.)

  • Keep the car cool and play calm music.

  • Drive carefully and smoothly. Be slow and gentle when you’re starting, stopping, and going around turns.

  • Keep trips very short at first, and lengthen over time. Start with just exiting the driveway and returning. Progress to going down the block, then a mile away, etc.

  • Take frequent, short trips to fun destinations like the park or a friend’s house.

  • Associate the car itself with fun things. Play in the back seat without driving anywhere. Feed meals inside. During car rides (as long as your dog won’t vomit afterwards), give him treats or chews (eg bully stick).

  • Try giving your dog ginger snaps or ginger capsules before the ride. (Ask your vet about proper dosing.)

  • Ask your vet about Cerenia, a prescription medication for nausea, or giving Dramamine or Bonine/Antivert.

    • Dramamine and Bonine/Antivert should be given at least 30 minutes (better 1 hour) before departure.

      • Dosing for dimenhydrinate (Dramamine) is 4–8 mg/kg, every 8 hours.

      • Dosing for meclizine (Bonine and Antivert) is 4 mg/kg, every 24 hours.

    • Cerenia should be given 2 hours before departure.

      • Dosing for maropitant (Cerenia) is 8 mg/kg, every 24 hours, for up to 2 consecutive days.

    • Always check with your vet before giving your dog medication, as it may be contra-indicated based on your dog’s individual medical history or other medications they are taking.

    • Sources for dosing instructions: Motion Sickness in Small Animals: Pathophysiology & Treatment (use textize.net to see full text) and Maropitant Citrate.

 
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Firework phobia

We’re a week out from July 4th, aka Independence Day for us Americans, aka the National Day of Terror for our dogs. It’s very common for dogs to be nervous about the unexpected, loud booms, and it’s said that July 5th is the busiest day of the year for shelters dealing with dogs who have escaped in their panic.

If your dog is one of those who tucks his tail, trembles, paces, or tries to hide or escape, you want to plan ahead of time. This is also useful for New Year’s Eve and during storms.

 

What to prep now:

Uh oh, I heard a noise…

Uh oh, I heard a noise…

  • Choose a hideout for you and your dog to take cover in. Ideally this is a room in the middle of your home, away from the outer walls. Walk in closets work well for this. Hang out together in this safe room regularly, so that your dog sees it as a comfortable place and not somewhere he’s been banished to. Make it a fun, relaxing experience by playing together, giving him something to chew on, or just relaxing with belly rubs.

  • Make sure that your dog has a name tag with your contact info and is microchipped in case he does get loose. (And make sure the information registered with the microchip is up to date.)

  • Consider trying some calming products to help your dog deal with the noise. Examples are Adaptil or Sentry products (contain calming dog pheromones), a Thundershirt or other tight wrap, calming treats, CBD oil, etc. Note that for all of these, they work well for some dogs and not at all for others, so it’s important to test them out ahead of time.

  • If your dog really struggles with noises, consult with your veterinarian about fast-acting, short-term medication. These can help relieve his anxiety so he’s better able to cope and get through the night safely. There is nothing wrong with giving him extra help through medication! Sileo is an example of a fast-acting drug that is often used for noise phobias.

 

What to do day of:

Shades drawn and a comforting lap.

Shades drawn and a comforting lap.

  • Stay home with your dog through the evening, to keep him safe and provide comfort

  • Secure the house - make sure that all doors to the outside and back yard gates are closed.

  • Close all the windows to reduce sound coming in. (In case of storms, also cover the windows to reduce flashes of lightning.)

  • Play white noise to further reduce the sounds your dog can hear.

  • Go to your hideout and settle down with your dog. Bring along anything you’ll need for the evening, such as snacks, laptop, or knitting. Stay calm and relaxed to help reassure your dog.

  • If your dog is happy to eat treats, give him a treat every time that he perks his ears or you hear a boom. (It helps if you use extra-yummy treats, like chicken or string cheese.) This is called classical conditioning, and will teach him to associate the noise with yummy food.*

    • *This will only work if your dog is eager for the food. If he is too overwhelmed to enjoy it, then this can backfire and “poison” his enjoyment of the food in the future. So only use treats if your dog is happy to get them.

  • Provide a chew (eg marrow bone, bully stick, beef tendon) or toy stuffed with food (eg peanut butter in Kong) if your dog is willing to work on it.

  • Schedule trips out to potty very carefully. Ideally you can give him one trip before most of the fireworks start at sunset, and another late in the evening when most of the fireworks are done. Supervise your dog even in a fenced yard in case he tries to escape.

 

Alternative options:

  • If you can drive to an area where fireworks are banned, or out to the country, you can do an evening road trip with your dogs. Go for a walk or just hang out in the car together.

  • See if you have friends, family, or someone who does boarding in a quiet area and would be able to take care of your dog for the night.

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