All Done cue

The “all done” cue tells your dog “we’re done with petting/playing/training, so you can do your own thing.” It’s helpful for persistently optimistic dogs who keep bringing you their ball or stepping on your heels after fun time is over.

Simply show your empty hands (or do "jazz hands") and say "all done.” Then continue on with your day, ignoring your pup for the next few minutes at least. With some repetition and consistency, the dog will learn to wander off and entertain himself after you tell him "all done."

Here’s an example:

Troubleshooting:

• If your dog hasn’t yet learned the cue and continues to pester you for attention, make sure to ignore him. Do not repeat “all done,” or give him any petting or talk to him. He must get ignored in order to learn that the cue means "I am not going to interact with you anymore."

• If you’re worried that your dog will start to do a “naughty” behavior in order to get your attention again (such as chewing things up, stealing shoes, or nipping), you should have him in a puppy-proofed area.

• If you find that your dog experiences a spike of frustration and can’t settle down on his own, you can help him by giving him something else to do right before you cue "all done." This could be a chew, a food toy, a "fresh" toy for him to play with, or even just scattering a small handful of kibble/treats to redirect him as you leave.

Nose Work

Nose work is an activity in which the dog is taught to use their sense of smell to locate an object. “K9 Nose Work” specifically is an organized sport in which the objects to find are hidden q-tips that have a tiny amount of essential oil on them - birch, anise, or clove. There is also “AKC Scent Work” which uses those same scents plus cypress. The organizations that run these sports (NACSW, AKC, and UKC) put on competitions in which dogs and owners get to show off their training against an objective standard. However there are many benefits to training nose work with your dog even if you have zero interest in formal competition.

Why train nose work?

There are two big reasons that I recommend this type of training for clients:

1. It’s a major mental workout, which is a huge help for meeting the exercise and enrichment needs of active dogs. This is particularly helpful if you have a dog who is so athletic that you can’t tire him out physically, when the weather prevents you from getting out, or if your dog can’t do much physical exercise due to injury or illness.

2. It’s a huge confidence booster for anxious or shy dogs. It gives them a structured, fun way to explore new surroundings and acclimate to the presence of people, noises, new surfaces, etc. There’s even a study that shows that “practicing nosework increases dogs’ positive judgment bias or ‘optimism’.” The authors also note that “behaving naturally and making active choices are two key factors in animal welfare,” and “olfaction-based activities contribute to dogs’ welfare.”

There’s also a third reason… which is that it’s fun!

What does nose work look like?

The final picture looks a lot like the work done by working detection dogs, such as those finding narcotics, explosives, forbidden foods at airports, or sea turtle nests on beaches.

You, the owner, will determine the area that your dog will be searching in - for example, one room of your house, your garage, your yard, or a particular area of the park. Your dog may be off leash if it’s safe, or on leash in public. You give them their cue, and they go off to find the “hide” using their excellent sense of smell, then indicate its location by pointing at it with their nose, staring at it, sitting and looking at you, or another signal you’ve trained.

A dog can be trained to find many different scents. In lieu of the essential oils used in competition, you could use a spice or extract (one that you don’t normally use in your kitchen, so your dog doesn’t get confused when you’re cooking), a dog toy, or an object (such as your keys!). You can even just use their kibble or treats, especially at the beginning.

Here’s a video from AKC that explains the sport and shows dogs practicing. (Note that while the video mentions that dogs must be registered with the AKC in order to compete, it is NOT limited to purebreds. AKC provides a way to register mixed breeds so that they can compete in nose work and some other AKC sports.)

Here’s another video with examples of typical of K9 Nose Work training.

Getting started on your own

You’ll need:

• Kibble or treats for your dog

• The essential oil or other scent that your dog will be searching for

• A small vented container to hold the scented q-tip, cotton ball, etc. If you’re using something larger, like your key chain, and there’s no danger of your dog eating it, then you can skip putting it into a container.

• Metal tweezers, so that you don’t touch the scented q-tip or cotton ball directly. Be careful to avoid getting the oil on your fingers.

• An airtight container for you to store your scented supplies when you’re not training. Your dog should not have access to these things outside of training time.

• You can purchase kits that make it easier to get started. I have purchased my supplies from Paws 4 Fun. They have a great starter kit here.

• 6-10 small to medium cardboard boxes, if you are starting with the box method.

Here is an article with great information on preparing, handling, and storing your supplies.

Here is another article with information on storing the essential oils.

Video tutorials

These videos can get you on the right track for this fun game!

• Box method video #1: Nose Work - How to start training your dog - DreamK9.com

• Box method video #2: Nosework (introduction) basic introduction to nosework using boxes and treats.

• Targeting method: Teaching dogs the 'find it' scent game

• (More videos will be linked as I find them!)

Classes and private lessons

I highly recommend taking a private lesson or a group class if you and your dog are enjoying the game but you’re not sure how to make it more challenging over time.

• Jennie Kiefer of Nosey Goldens teaches in Dixon, Davis, Loomis, Newcastle, and surrounding areas. She is a wonderful instructor for both rambunctious and anxious dogs. She does both group classes and private lessons.

• Cindy Smith of The Right Steps teaches classes in Fair Oaks.

• Christa Wendlandt teaches small group classes in Vallejo.

• The online Fenzi Dog Sports Academy has a whole nose work program.

• Dodger’s Paws in Pleasanton offers group classes.

• Tell A Tail is a training school in Livermore that does all nose work.

• The East Bay SPCA sometimes has nose work classes.

Other helpful articles about nose work

Preparing for an ORT (Odor Recognition Test)

Alternative scent-based games

Here are links for other scent games that don’t fall into the typical “nose work” category - more will be added as I find good videos/articles.

• Scent Games by Pup to Perfection

Separation Anxiety Referrals

A very brief intro to working through separation anxiety

Owners often realize that their dog is experiencing separation anxiety because they hear incessant barking (or get complaints from neighbors about it) as they’re leaving or returning home, find their dog has demolished their home, broken out of their crate, or emptied their bladder or bowels. These dogs are not just upset about being left alone; they are experiencing panic attacks. The solution is not to purchase an indestructible crate and a bark collar to suppress their behavior, but rather, to use desensitization techniques to teach the dog that they can be alone and feel okay about it.

The first step is to stop leaving your dog alone for longer than they can handle - which probably means not leaving them at all. That may seem overwhelming, but with help, it can be done. Here are some options:

• Shifting your family members’ schedules when possible so that you trade off dog care.

• Having people come over to spend time with your dog while you’re out: neighbors, friends, family members, people within your communities such as church, knitting circles, sports teams.

• Taking your dog to spend time at someone else’s home - see list above, and consider other dog owners who don’t mind having one extra for a few hours. You could even trade care with them, so other times you’re watching both the dogs when they need a break.

• Posting on social media such as NextDoor or Facebook to find more helpers not already in your social circle.

• Bringing your dog with you on errands. (Just mind the temperature of the car on warm days.)

• Hiring a pet sitter.

• Taking your dog to daycare.

With that management plan in place, you will now begin the desensitization process. This starts with very, very low intensity doses of being “left alone” - that might be literally just opening the front door and closing it again, without stepping outside. Repeat until your dog shrugs this off as not interesting. Then start opening the front door, stepping through, returning, closing the door. You’ll also need to desensitize your dog to your “getting ready to go out” routine, such as putting on shoes, picking up keys, setting the alarm system, etc. There are many more nuances to this process and it should not be attempted without learning more from the resources or referrals below.

Getting help

While I do know how to help a dog work through separation anxiety (and even have personal experience with it), my preference is to refer out to people who specialize in this area. Here are my usual referrals and resources.

• Self-paced resources:

  • Malena DeMartini, a recognized expert in this area, has a self-paced online course called Mission Possible, with an option for the course plus regular help from a trainer, and a heavy-duty "walk you through everything" option. Her website is malenademartini.com/

  • Julie Naismith has a clear, easy to follow book called “Be Right Back!: How To Overcome Your Dog's Separation Anxiety And Regain Your Freedom.” There is also an online course with an app.

  • Here is a short video that gives a crash course on the training from Emily Larlham/KikoPup.

  • Here is a 2 hour webinar from Tracy Krulik (CSAT).

• Working with trainers:

  • Most separation anxiety training is done via video, since having a trainer in the room while you're practicing would defeat the purpose of alone training. So you can train with people all over the world!

    • Malena DeMartini also has a certified trainers (CSATs) providing online coaching for owners. You can sign up for a comprehensive package for the trainer to walk you through all the steps, or get hourly coaching as needed.

  • If you would prefer to support someone local, here are a few trainers in the greater Sacramento area who enjoy working with separation anxiety dogs:

    • Allison Daack of Daack Pack Dog Training

    • Shelly Deel (CSAT) of A Good Dog Day Behavior & Training

    • Beverly Lassiter of Head Over Heels

    • Chloe MacBean (CSAT) of Lab & Leo

    • Rebekah Piedad of Yes! Dog

Hang in there

Working through separation anxiety may seem like an overwhelming process at the beginning, but it has a very good prognosis as long as you carefully follow the desensitization protocol. Best of luck!

Transitioning an Outdoor Dog to Living Indoors

Sometimes people end up with dogs who have been living outdoors - perhaps due to allergies in a previous home, or because they never received training and are too rambunctious - and now the family wants to welcome their dog indoors with them. The first few tries may be disastrous, as the dog jumps all over the couch and coffee table, knocks things off the shelves, and steals the remote and any food left on the counter. How could you possibly teach such a dog to just hang out with you calmly?

This article presents one way to work through this transition. Please note that this does not cover potty training, integrating the dog with other animals already in the house, or teaching polite interactions with humans - though those things can be worked on simultaneously.

First things first

You must make sure that your dog is already getting sufficient physical exercise and mental stimulation/enrichment before you try bringing them indoors. No dog can settle calmly if they are full of energy and deeply bored.

The second thing for you to prioritize is arranging an area of your home so that your dog cannot easily get to the food, kids’ toys, decorative ceramics, etc. In most cases, a dog who has been living in a backyard or roaming a property has never learned that there are things that are “off limits” to them. You are going to be busy teaching your dog good habits and how to settle while in the house. If you are spending your time chasing him around and pulling things out of his mouth, you’re already off to a bad start.

• Use baby gates and x-pens and closed doors to limit where your dog can go.

• Put away everything in reach that’s valuable or dangerous.

• Use a leash as needed to keep your dog close and under supervision.

• Within the safe area, place your dog’s bed or mat, water bowl, several toys, and chews or food toys (see enrichment article for suggestions).

Once your dog is making progress with settling and engaging in appropriate activities, you can start trusting him with more freedom and progressively lowering the restrictions.

Teaching good habits

Take your dog out for a walk or run him around just before you bring him indoors, so that he’ll have an easier time relaxing. If needed, put him on leash in the house so that he can’t chase other pets, jump on the counters, etc. Let him sniff around your safe area otherwise, so that he can see what all the new stuff is.

After a minute or two, give him an appropriate activity to entertain him. You have several options:

• A chew or food toy with which he can entertain himself on his own.

• Play tug or fetch with him. (Note that for dogs that go crazy for fetch, you may want to keep that as an outdoor only activity.)

• Do active training, such as teaching a down stay on a mat or tricks to work his brain.

• Provide a massage as he relaxes.

Switch between the different options as you see fit. You can also periodically reward your dog for calm behavior, as shown in this video from Emily Larlham/KikoPup:

If your dog gets bored with one activity and starts getting into things he shouldn’t, you can:

• rearrange your safe area to prevent that in the future

• work on “leave it” or “settle” behaviors

• provide him with more exercise (eg go for a walk or hike)

• put him back outside

• move him to a crate or small pen to nap

Shifting to full-time indoor living

Once the routine is working well within the initial safe area, slowly expand your dog’s territory.

A key things to keep in mind during this process:

• The more time your dog spends indoors, the easier this will be. If he only gets to come in once or twice a week, the novelty and initial excitement won’t wear off.

• The dog is often most rambunctious in the first 5-10 minutes, then settles down.

• If you don’t provide enough appropriate outlets for his energy (both mentally and physically), it will be very difficult to keep him from stealing and chewing on things, jumping on everyone, harassing the other animals, etc.

Teaching Puppies to Drop It

Puppies love to pick things up and chew on them. It's fun, and it's part of exploring their world! They also love to play “keep away” when their human wants those things back. Here is how to prevent this bad habit.

Setting your puppy up for success

• Put away everything your pup might get into. That means shoes, socks, kids' toys, coasters on coffee tables, and everything else that is small and not weighted down must be placed up high, or behind a gate or door.

• Work on a strong response to the pup's name by playing the “name game”: Call your dog's name, then immediately feed him a tasty treat.

• Never chase your puppy, whether in play or because he has picked something up.

• When your dog does have something in his mouth, always do a trade to get it back. (See below.)

• Never pull something out of your dog's mouth unless it is an emergency because it's a truly dangerous object. (Forcefully removing objects creates defensiveness in your dog, which can lead to resource guarding. See below.)

• Practice “drop it” with toys and chews that your puppy is allowed to pick up, and give the item back after doing the trade. This way, your pup won’t associate giving up what he has with always losing his treasure.

How to trade to get an object back from your pup

1. Place a tasty treat right on your dog's nose.

2. When he drops what's currently in his mouth, let him eat the treat.

3. Once you've practiced this enough that it's going smoothly, say the cue “drop it” right before you place the treat on his nose.

4. With enough repetition, your pup will start to drop what's in his mouth and look up at you as soon as he hears the words “drop it.” You are now rewarding him for dropping the item on cue rather than just luring him with a treat.

   • If your pup regresses and does not drop the item when you say “drop it,” do not repeat the cue or try to grab the item. Follow the words “drop it” with the treat on the nose to keep the association strong. See more about teaching verbal cues here.

A quick demo of teaching “drop it.”

Here is a full video tutorial on teaching “drop it” via trading for a treat:

Here is a video tutorial on teaching “drop it” via trading for a toy, instead:

Trouble shooting:

• My puppy runs away even though I have treats:

  • Have your puppy wear a leash and let it drag on the floor behind him, so that you can step on the leash to interrupt running away.

  • Scatter multiple treats on the floor instead of reaching toward him with the treat.

  • Step back and let the puppy approach and eat treats without your “threatening” presence.

  • Pick up the item after your pup has moved away from it to eat the scattered treats. Be calm and subtle with your movement.

• My puppy drops the object to eat the treat but immediately picks it back up again:

  • Practice trading multiple times in a row.

  • Use scattering of treats to keep his mouth busier for longer while you pick up the object.

• My puppy growls or snaps when I reach for him, even with a treat.

  • Your puppy is exhibiting “resource guarding,” which is more intense than a normal “puppy picks up everything” problem. He needs a special training program to address this.

  • In the meantime, use scattering of treats instead of reaching directly for him. Use very yummy treats for this.

• My puppy constantly picks up wood chips, rocks, sticks, leaves, etc outside.

  • This is normal. Most puppies will pick the objects up, give a few chews, and then drop them on their own. If that's what your pup is doing, just let him. Don't stress yourself and your pup out by trying to prevent him from picking up every single item.

  • If your pup is actually swallowing these objects, this is potentially a safety issue. In that case, you need to:

    • prevent your puppy from walking around the problem objects

    • distract him with treats from up above if prevention is impossible during walks

    • do trades as necessary

    • consider training him to wear a basket muzzle.

Here is a video tutorial on using a treat scatter as the primary association with the cue “drop it” - highly recommended for dogs who have a strong history of playing “keep away” or have resource guarding issues:

Puppy Development

Knowing what to expect as your puppy grows up will help you prepare for his training and exercise needs. Below is a guide to your new puppy's growth, both physical and mental. This is only a guide and is not set in stone, as there are differences among breeds and individuals.

From birth – 12 days: Neonatal Period

The puppies are completely dependent on the care of their dam. Their eyes and ears are sealed, but they can smell and feel.

13 – 20 days: Transitional Period

Puppies' eyes and ears begin to open, though the eyes are not fully functional until 10 weeks old.

3 - 8 weeks:

Baby teeth are coming in. Ouch!

3 - 14 weeks: Critical Socialization Period

This is the most important developmental period for you to be aware of. This is a time of immense learning. Puppies are extremely impressionable and are learning what is safe and normal in their world. This is when puppies must have safe, positive interactions with a variety of new people, new dogs, and other animals in order to be social as adults. They are learning bite inhibition and social skills from other dogs as they play. They must also have positive exposure to novel stimuli such as various sights, sounds, smells, surfaces. They can begin learning obedience foundation such as sit, down, and come (in 1-2 minute training sessions). They should be learning to accept handling, being held, and having nails trimmed. Potty training should be well underway, as the puppy is already developing a preference for where he will potty (hopefully not on carpet!). Researchers Scott & Fuller found that puppies who had not seen a stranger before 7 weeks old are unlikely to approach one without encouragement. If they have not seen one before 14 weeks old, they may never voluntarily approach strangers. Read more about safe puppy socialization here.

Between 8 - 11 weeks: First Impact Period (“fear period”)

Within the Critical Socialization Period, there is usually a brief “fear period.” It may last a few days or a week. Your normally confident, curious puppy may hesitate around new stimuli, and even around things that didn't bother him before. Socialization can be scaled back but should continue, with extra care taken to prevent negative experiences from traumatizing him. Then your puppy will return to his usual curiosity about the world.

3 - 8 months:

Adult teeth are replacing baby teeth. Give lots of toys and chews!

4 - 8 months: Flight Instinct Period

This oddly-named period is when your “puppy” starts to be more grown up. He will be ready to leave the security of home and family and be much more interested in exploring the big wide world, and especially in interacting with other dogs. He will experiment with new behaviors, and often issues with marking, counter-surfing, barking, pulling on leash, and not coming when called pop up.

Between 6 - 15 months: Second Impact Period (“fear period”)

The second “fear period” is not as well-defined. It may last a few weeks to several months, and the onset may be gradual or sudden. Avoid forcing your dog into scary situations. Instead, help him gain confidence by encouraging investigation and rewarding good choices. Continue careful socialization. Beware of dog parks.

Between 9 - 18 months: Growth plates close

Growth plates are open areas between bones that are particularly susceptible to injury. Hard impacts that occur before the growth plates finish growing (“close”) can affect bone growth and cause permanent injury. This is why young dogs should not be exposed to repetitive or hard impact exercise such as jumping, jogging (especially on paved roads), or catching frisbees. Spaying/neutering before the growth plates close also impacts the dog's physical development. X-rays can confirm when an individual dog’s growth plates are closed, but rules of thumb are:

• Small dogs (<20 lbs): 6-8 months

• Medium dogs (21-50 lbs): 12 months

• Large dogs (51-100 lbs): 12-18 months

• X-Large dogs (100+ lbs): 24 months

2 - 3 years: Maturity

Dogs are often considered “adult” around 1 - 1.5 years, but full maturity, both mentally and physically, is around 2 - 3 years. Finally!

Puppy Biting and Chewing

Why do puppies bite so much!?

• It's how they explore the world! They don't have hands so they check things out by chewing on them. It's also inherently enjoyable to chew on stuff.

• It's how they learned to play with their siblings, and they don't know yet that we humans want to play differently.

• They are excited by movement (particularly herding breeds and terriers).

• They're teething, and are experiencing pain or irritation in their gums that may be soothed by chewing.

How to discourage biting while petting or playing with your pup:

• Don't reach for your dog's head from the front or above. Pet from the side or while he's facing away from the hand that's petting. (See video below.) Belly rubs also tend to lead to mouthing, so avoid them unless your pup is truly calm.

• Always have a toy or chew within reach and if your pup is in a biting mood, physically place it between his mouth and your body parts. Keep moving it around as needed to keep it between the two of you, like a shield.

• Play with long, thin, whippy toys that drag along the ground rather than toys you hold up in the air. Encourage tug and chase games with the longer toys.

  • Flirt poles are an excellent option, especially when kids want to play with dogs. You can purchase a designated flirt pole (small dogs, big dogs) or create your own by purchasing a lunge whip at the feed store and attaching any toy dog to the end.

  • For extra protection, have the kids stand behind a baby gate or pen, so the puppy cannot get to their feet or hands. (Don’t have the kids play while “safely” on the couch or chairs, as soon the pup will be big enough to reach up and nip them there.)

• Every time your pup manages to get his mouth on your skin or clothes, calmly remove him and redirect to a toy or chew. Be prepared to do this over and over and over again!

• If your puppy is suddenly biting harder or more frequently than usual - or you’re trying to redirect him to a toy but he is very insistent on going right for your skin - he is probably either overly excited or overly tired. Redirect to a different activity (such as calm training time) or put him away in a pen or crate with a chew and let him decompress. See here for information on puppy schedules to avoid overly tired and nippy pups.

• Some puppies also bite more or harder when they are physically uncomfortable, such as from feeling hungry, needing to potty, or having itchy or inflamed skin.

• For pups who never seem to stop biting: try smearing something like peanut butter or cream cheese in a thin layer on the back of your hand, wrist, and/or lower arm. This encourages the dog to lick rather than bite. Praise the puppy for licking. Repeat as needed.

Demo on how to pet a puppy without getting bitten.

Should I yelp or yell when my puppy bites?

• This is common advice, but doesn't always help. Many puppies become MORE excited when you yelp or yell, which makes them bite more.

• If your pup doesn't have that problem, the proper way to use the “yelp” method is to yelp, AND then do a mini time out. Pull your hands close to your body, look away from the pup, and ignore him for 1-3 seconds. Reengage when he is acting appropriately (not jumping, barking, or biting)

Do NOT:

Do not close your puppy's mouth, swat at it, or otherwise put your hands in/around his mouth when he is biting. This creates a negative association with hands coming toward his head, which will cause problems down the road.

Troubleshooting:

• My puppy bites my legs/feet/clothes when I walk by:

  • Don't let your pup practice this behavior. If you’re too busy/distracted to train, proactively keep him away from your feet by using x-pens, baby gates, tethers, and leashes.

  • Use treats to direct your dog's head up and reward him for any steps taken without biting you.

  • When it does happen, hold still (don't yell or jump around) and calmly redirect your puppy to a toy or chew. Be prepared to do this over and over and over again!

  • Make sure your pup is getting plenty of appropriate exercise (including toy play, mental enrichment, and calm cardio exercise like walks).

  • Add proactive training exercises:

• My puppy bites every time I try to put on his collar, harness, or leash:

  • Do some desensitization and counter-conditioning to handling.

  • Here is a video on proactive handling exercises with puppies:

• My puppy is fine with the adults, but bites my children:

  • Puppies are always worse with children because the kids are smaller, move quickly and erratically, and have higher-pitched voices (more exciting and less intimidating).

  • Use more environmental management to prevent uncontrolled interactions between the puppy and children. Encourage parallel play. When they’re together, an adult should always be supervising and ready to step in.

  • Coach children to “be a tree” when the puppy bites (or jumps). They should raise and cross their arms (branches), look away from the puppy (to the sky), keep their feet firmly planted (roots in the ground), and hold still and quiet. The parent should then step in and redirect the puppy to a more appropriate activity.

    • Do not let the kids run away from the puppy by jumping onto couches or chairs - this will backfire when he gets big enough to chase them upwards and keep nipping.

  • Teach children how to play toy games (tug, fetch, flirt pole) in a way that encourages appropriate biting on the toy and discourages jumping and chasing. Keep toys down low; many kids will raise their hands up when they're worried, which can make the puppy jump up to grab the toy. Teach the kids how to do trades and “drop it” instead of reaching for the toy.

  • See more about kids and dogs here.

• My puppy is usually good but goes crazy an hour before bedtime:

  • Nearly all puppies go through a “witching hour” shortly before bedtime.

  • Be prepared and plan ahead! It's not realistic to ask your puppy to clamp down on his energy – instead, have a plan for directing that energy into appropriate activities.

    • Play with long, whippy toys that you can drag on the ground. A toy on a string or flirt pole is great for playing with the puppy while keeping your body parts far away.

    • Scatter treats all around the room, or even better, in the grass outside.

    • Give a particularly enticing chew, such as a new marrow bone.

    • Arrange a play date with another puppy or let him run in a safe off-leash area around the time of the witching hour, or shortly before.

  • See more information on puppy schedules here.

What about chewing on furniture and other household items?

• Have plenty of chew toys available, and rotate through them daily. You should have toys of various textures (rubber, plush, crunchy, rope, etc) along with real, edible animal parts (bully sticks, cow hooves, smoked knuckle bones, water buffalo horns, pig ears, antlers, marrow bones, yak milk/Himalayan sticks, dense wood chews, etc).

• Some puppies enjoy chewing on frozen items such as ice cubes, frozen water-soaked cloth, or frozen fruit. It may numb aching gums.

• Pick up any smaller objects you don't want to get chewed.

• Use gates, pens, tethers, and leashes to confine the puppy and keep him away from furniture he wants to chew.

• Bitter-tasting sprays (like Bitter Apple and Bitter Yuck) deter most puppies (though not all). Reapply daily.

• You are developing good chewing habits by restricting his ability to make mistakes. Gradually give your pup more freedom as you see that he is making good choices.

• Give plenty of mental enrichment and age-appropriate physical exercise. (No forced running or other highly repetitive activity. Allow plenty of free walking and running time, play time with appropriate dogs, and low-impact play.)

Will my puppy grow out of it?

Typically puppy biting and chewing decreases drastically once the pup is finished with teething (~5-6 months old). However most dogs enjoy chewing for life, and should regularly have chews and toys made available.

Potty Training

The principles of potty training are easy to understand, but require good supervision, consistency, and patience for your dog to become reliable.

Prevent your dog from making mistakes:

• When you are out of the house or unable to supervise your dog, put him into a crate, pen, or small room (such as a bathroom or laundry room). This keeps him from roaming the house and eliminating where you don't want him to. Your dog is also likely to hold his bladder and bowels while he is in a confined space, since he wants to keep his area clean.

• When you are home, keep your dog close, so that he doesn't sneak off and have an accident.

  • Use a leash to tether him to you or to a nearby object.

  • Use baby gates or x-pens to keep him from leaving the room.

Take your dog to the proper potty area frequently:

• For puppies, take them out every hour, on the hour. (Some young puppies need even more frequent trips out.)

• Also take your dog (adult or puppy) out after:

  • mealtimes

  • breaks in playtime

  • waking up from a nap

• While you're outside, stand still and be boring, so your dog learns that this isn't playtime.

• If your pup is busy exploring, use a leash or pen to keep him in a boring area.

• Wait up to 2 minutes for him to do his business.

• If you think he needs to pee or poop but hasn't yet, take him back inside, but restrict his freedom and supervise him to prevent any accidents. Take him back outside after 5-10 minutes.

Reward your dog for peeing and pooping outside:

• Praise your dog as he eliminates.

• Give special, extra-yummy treats as soon as he's done. (Not when he comes back to the house - you should be outside with your dog so that you can reward him promptly!)

• If he's empty, he can have extra freedom of movement inside until he's likely to be full again. (Generally 30 minutes to 1 hour for puppies, a few hours for adult dogs.)

Watch for signs that your dog is uncomfortable and looking for a place to eliminate:

• sneaking off

• circling

• pacing

• sniffing

• trying to get your attention

If your dog has an accident:

• If you catch him in the act, you can communicate your displeasure by giving a quick yell in an unhappy tone (“Ah, not there!!”).

• If you find the mess after your dog is done, it is TOO LATE - your dog cannot make the connection between the act of eliminating in the house and you being unhappy.

• Do NOT punish or scare your dog! This is likely to a) make your dog more determined to sneak off and eliminate in a different room, and b) be nervous about peeing or pooping in front of you at all, even outside.

• Clean with a product that is specifically formulated for cleaning up pet messes, such as Nature's Miracle. All purpose cleaners may not break down the proteins in the pee/poop properly, and your dog will still be able to smell them - which is a big sign saying “do your business here.”

Developing reliability:

• When your dog is successfully going outside and you have the training plan in place, you can slowly start to extend the time between trips outside.

• You can let your dog have more freedom of movement / less supervision in the house during times that you're home and you’re sure he's empty.

• Start leaving him alone outside of the crate/pen for short periods (less than 1 hour) when you're sure he's empty. (This should be in a puppy-proofed area, so that he’s not chewing things up, either.)

• The better you are at picking up your dog's signs that he needs to go out, the easier it will be. In fact, as your dog learns that you WILL take him out when he needs it, he will try HARDER to communicate to you when he wants to go.

• Some people have success teaching their dog to ring a bell or other noisemaker to communicate.

  • Teach them to ring the bell as a trick, separate from potty training.

  • Ask your dog to ring the bell right before you take him outside.

  • At some point your dog will try ringing the bell without prompting, to see if you will take him outside. Praise and do so. You can't rush this part - your dog has to figure it out on his own.

  • Here is a video tutorial on teaching your pup to use a bell:

Troubleshooting:

• My dog pees outside, then comes in the house and pees again: If he does this regularly, either spend more time outside so he can pee twice, or just assume that he will soon need a second potty trip, and restrict/supervise in the meantime.

• According to his age, my dog is supposed to be able to hold his bladder for X hours, but he has accidents sooner than that: The bladder is a muscle, and just like other muscles, it's weak if it hasn't been exercised. If your dog is young, or if he has grown up in a back yard and peeing whenever he wants, he may simply not able to hold it as long as he “should.” Take him out more frequently, and slowly extend the time between trips.

• My dog is able to hold it all night, so why does he pee so much during the day? Your body's metabolism slows down when you're asleep or resting - you simply can't compare the two.

• My dog pees in his crate/pen/small room: More trips outside! You may also need to remove absorbent bedding, as some dogs will consider their area “clean enough” if a fluffy blanket wicks the urine away.

• My dog marks indoors: You will need to restrict/supervise even more carefully. You may want to have your boy wear a belly band, so that if he does mark, it won't actually land on your walls or furniture. This helps with the potential problem of not seeing that your dog has marked and not knowing where to clean.

• My dog just wants to play when we go outside: Put him on leash or in a pen when you go out so that he can't run around or play with toys. Stand still and don't make eye contact while you wait, so that you're not any fun.

• My dog pees when greeting people: This is not a potty training issue per se. Some dogs will pee because they're nervous when greeting people or because they want to present as “submissive” a picture as possible. Young dogs may simply lose control over their bladder when excited.

  • Keep greetings as low-key as possible. Speak only in a calm, quiet voice. Sit or squat down so that you are less threatening.

  • Have guests greet the dog outside (and also be low-key).

  • Teach confidence-building tricks for your dog to perform while greeting people, such as hand targeting or fetching a toy.

Teaching verbal cues

Dogs are naturally more attuned to our body language than our words. Some are still able to pick up the meanings of words easily - think of the dogs whose owners have to spell out “b-a-t-h” or “w-a-l-k” - but most will only learn verbal obedience cues if the owner makes a special effort. Here are a variety of tips and methods for you to use.

Things to remember before you start training

• Don’t use the same word to mean different things (such as saying “down” when you want your dog to get off the couch and when you want him to lie down on the floor).

  • The word “no” often falls prey to this - people say “no” to mean “don’t eat that” and “don’t rush out the door” and “don’t jump” and “don’t bark at the other dog.” (Here is more information on why “no” isn’t very useful in dog training.)

  • The same thing can happen with your dog’s name. Teach your dog that his name means “focus on me,” and then use it only for that purpose. “Come” is a separate cue!

• Don’t use words that sound very similar for two different behaviors (for example, “down” and “bow", or “speak” and “feet”).

• Keep your tone consistent (eg, say “come” the same way every time, not sometimes high-pitched and happy and other times low and upset).

• Don’t keep repeating your cue, hoping that the dog will eventually listen - follow the steps below to get reliable responses.

Pairing a verbal cue with an event, rather than a behavior

This is used when you want to teach your dog that a specific word is signalling what’s to come next, regardless of the dog’s behavior. Common examples are:

• “Walk” or “Wanna go for a walk?” signals that you’re about to put on the dog’s leash and take him out.

• “Up” signals that you need to pick up your small dog or puppy.

• “All done” can signal that you are done giving your dog attention for now. (The “event” is you withdrawing attention and ignoring your dog.)

• Reward markers (see clicker training 101) fall into this category; “yes” means “you did a good thing and I’m about to give you a treat.” Some people teach different reward markers to mean different things, such as “catch” for a toy that is about to be tossed to the dog or “find it” for a treat that is tossed for the dog to chase/sniff out.

These cues are extremely easy to teach: simply 1) say the verbal cue, then 2) make the event happen.

The key is to say the cue FIRST, and THEN make the event happen. Don’t do both at the same time.

Repeat this over and over. After a while, you’ll see the dog’s body language change when he hears it. He may perk up and wag his tail at “yes” or head to the front door at “walk” (or slink away and hide at “bath”).

Pairing a verbal cue with a previously-trained behavior

This will only work if you already have a behavior that your dog will perform when given a hand signal or otherwise prompted to respond correctly. Common examples are any of the typical obedience behaviors (sit, down, heel), fun tricks (shake, roll over, spin in a circle), and husbandry skills (placing head down on target, offering paw, settling on side).

Similar to above, you want to: 1) say the verbal cue, then 2) give the hand signal or other prompt to get the dog to perform the behavior, finally 3) reward the dog for performing the behavior correctly.

Again, the key is to say the cue FIRST, and THEN prompt the behavior. Don’t do both at the same time. Make sure to reward the dog after he performs, so that he stays motivated to pay attention and respond.

Repeat until the dog understands the pattern and responds to the verbal cue before you get the chance to prompt the behavior. Reward!

Here is a video demonstration of this process, by KikoPup/Emily Larlham:

Trouble-shooting: If you’ve been working on this for a while, and you’re sure that you’re saying the cue first, and then prompting the behavior, but your dog still isn’t responding to the cue:

• Use a lower-value treat (such as kibble or a treat they get all the time) when your dog responds after the prompt.

• Use a higher-value treat (such as real meat or cheese) and extra praise when your dog finally responds before the prompt.

Pairing a verbal cue with an offered behavior

A behavior that is being “offered” by the dog is one that he does without any cues or prompting - either because he’s learned that you like that behavior and so he keeps repeating it, or because it’s a behavior he naturally does on his own. Examples are peeing outside, barking, and stretching. Any behavior that the dog is offering, and which you want to be able to cue the dog to do anytime, can be put on a verbal cue.

Like the two methods above, you still want to rehearse saying the verbal cue just before the dog performs the behavior, but it can be much more challenging. How do you know that your dog is about to stretch, bark, etc? Look for patterns! For example:

• Turning in a tight circle while sniffing around, just before pottying

• Always stretching after coming out of a crate or getting up from a nap

• Barking every time the doorbell rings

• Going to the back door when wanting to go outside

• You’ve been petting your dog every time he puts his head on your lap, and now he does it frequently when he approaches you at the computer

Now that you can predict the behavior you’re looking for, you’re ready to start pairing it with a verbal cue. Simply say the cue just before your dog does the behavior, wait for him to do it, and give a reward after he does it. Repeat something like 50-100 times before you try cuing your dog to perform the behavior in a different context.

Trouble-shooting:

• If your dog stops what he’s doing as soon as you say anything (especially annoying if you say “potty” and that makes the dog stop and stare at you), you can:

  • Say it very quietly at first, and raise your volume to a normal voice over time.

  • Start off by saying the verbal cue once the dog is already doing the behavior, and adjust your timing to be earlier and earlier over time.

• If you’ve done the pairing process soooo many times but your dog just stares blankly when you give the cue in a different context:

  • Try practicing in as similar a context as you can.

    • For example, if your goal is to be able to cue your dog to potty during walks, and right now he only does it in the backyard, practice saying “potty” in the front yard next.

    • If you want your dog to bark on cue, and he does it when there’s someone at the door but not any other time, trying saying “speak” and then giving a knock on the front door. This is likely similar enough that he’ll bark, and you can reward him. Later on, trying cuing “speak” when there’s no noise at the front door.

  • Give treats or other good rewards after the dog performs the behavior, even without the cue, so that he understands that it’s a behavior you really like.

  • You can also consider adding another technique in addition to the above. For example, teach the stretch or head-on-lap with luring, then add the verbal cue.

• If your dog is now responding to the verbal cue but also offering the behavior at unwanted moments (eg, he barks when you say “speak” but also barks anytime he wants attention now), simply stop giving any attention to the behavior when you haven’t cued it. Reward the absence of the behavior (eg, being quiet when he wants attention, sitting without offering a paw to shake).

One last note: If you give attention to the behavior, you will be rewarding it. So if you don’t want your dog to ever bark at the doorbell, then don’t use that situation to put barking on cue. Or if you don’t want your dog to put his head on your lap when you’re trying to work at the computer, don’t ever pet him or coo at him when he does it.

Extra practice responding to verbal cues

If you want to really emphasize verbal cues in your training - perhaps you are going to compete in a dog sport in which this is critical, or your dog will often be wandering at a distance from you - try these techniques:

• Teach a set of verbal cues for different types of reward markers (common examples are handing the dog a treat, tossing a treat, scattering several treats on the ground, tossing a ball, inviting a game of tug). This would be “pairing a verbal cue with an event.” Because the dog is highly invested in what is going to happen next, he’s much more likely to pay attention to the sounds coming out of your mouth. Start by teaching one reward marker, then a second, then mix those two up in the same session, then teach a third, then mix the three up in the same session, etc.

• Do several reps in a row of saying the verbal cue for a recently learned behavior (eg spin), then giving the prompt, then rewarding as usual. After a few successful reps, say a different verbal cue, for a behavior your dog already knows well (eg sit). If he does that (sit) correctly, reward, then go back to practicing the behavior that he doesn't know as well (spin). If he isn't listening and does the incorrect behavior, reset him (by moving around the room, or if necessary by tossing a boring/low value treat), then try again.

• Teach opposing cues (such as speak vs quiet, stay vs come, left vs right). Start with one cue first (eg left), and get it going reliably. Then introduce the second cue (right) in separate sessions. Then mix those two up in the same session. Make sure you’re not falling into a predictable pattern, such as left right left right left right.

• Practice responding to verbal cues while you change your body language from the norm. Can your dog respond to “sit” while you are lying down on the couch? How about while your back is turned? While you’re around the corner and out of sight? Any time he successfully responds, reward with a high value treat! Any time he doesn’t, adjust your body posture to be more “normal,” then give the cue a second time. If he still struggles, provide a clarifying hand signal or other prompt. Reward with a low value/boring treat if he needed help.

• Is your dog not listening but instead offering several behaviors, one after the other, every time you bring the treats out?

  • Don’t reward him for offering those behaviors without the cue.

  • Don’t practice the same behaviors in the same order each time (eg always going in the order of sit, down, roll over).

  • Teach a “default” behavior that you want your dog to do when the treats come out, such as sitting calmly or just standing still. Reward only that, and reward it generously when you pull the treats out. Ignore all the other offered behaviors.

    • Once your dog stops cycling through all the tricks in his repertoire, and assumes the default behavior instead, you can return to working on verbal cues using the techniques above.

Final notes

Always remember that in the end, behaviors happen due to consequences, not cues:

“Buddy has a pretty solid recall going! He comes running happily as soon as you call. Is that because of the word you’ve chosen as the cue for this behavior, or because you’re using just the right tone of voice? No – it’s because the behavior of running to you when you call, has a nice strong reinforcement history! So as long as that keeps up, the behavior will keep happening whenever you cue it.”

Test your assumptions about whether your dog does, in fact, know the cues you think you’re teaching:

“He looked for the bus while standing right on top of Jordan. It seems that Kip did not actually know the meaning of, “Where’s Jordan.” I was mistaken and presumed far too much. Dog owners often complain that their dogs know obedience commands and house rules. They say, “He KNOWS sit, but he won’t do it.””

Puppy socialization

Providing appropriate socialization is a critical part of raising your puppy to be a well-adjusted adult dog, one who welcomes guests into the home, walks calmly and confidently in public, and can travel with the family. It is the process of introducing your puppy to the wider world, to help prevent fear and aggression later in life. It is also the process of teaching your puppy how to behave out there, to help prevent lunging and barking and over-excitement around other dogs, skateboards, scooters, etc.

The critical socialization period begins at 3 weeks old and ends between 12 and 16 weeks old. That means that the process of safe, controlled socialization should already be started by the breeder or rescue you get your puppy from.

Wait, shouldn’t I wait to take my puppy out of the house until they have all their vaccinations done? What if my puppy gets sick?

In a word: no! A puppy who is sequestered indoors is significantly more likely to have problems with fear and aggression later in life. Here are several resources on why socialization is so important.

The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior's Position Statement on Puppy Socialization (PDF):

“The Primary and most important time for puppy socialization is the first three months of life. During this time puppies should be exposed to as many new people, animals, stimuli and environments as can be achieved safely and without causing over- stimulation manifested as excessive fear, withdrawal or avoidance behavior. For this reason, the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior believes that it should be the standard of care for puppies to receive such socialization before they are fully vaccinated.

Because the first three months are the period when sociability outweighs fear, this is the primary window of opportunity for puppies to adapt to new people, animals, and experiences. Incomplete or improper socialization during this important time can increase the risk of behavioral problems later in life including fear, avoidance, and/or aggression. Behavioral problems are the greatest threat to the owner-dog bond. In fact, behavioral problems are the number one cause of relinquishment to shelters. Behavioral issues, not infectious diseases, are the number one cause of death for dogs under three years of age.”

Puppy Vaccination and Early Socialization Should Go Together (PDF)

“Experience and epidemiologic data support the relative safety and lack of transmission of disease in these puppy socialization classes over the past 10 years in many parts of the United States. In fact; the risk of a dog dying because of infection with distemper or parvo virus disease is far less than the much higher risk of a dog dying (euthanasia) because of a behavior problem. Many veterinarians are now offering new puppy owners, puppy socialization classes in their hospitals or nearby training facilities with assistance of trainers and behaviorists. This emphasizes the importance of early socialization and training as important parts of a wellness plan for every puppy. We need to recognize that this special sensitive period for learning is the best opportunity we have to influence behavior for dogs and the most important and longest lasting part of a total wellness plan.”

2013 Study: Frequency of Parvovirus in Vaccinated Puppies that Attended Puppy Socialization Classes

“Socialization is one method of preventing behavior problems in dogs; however, some oppose socialization before 16 wk of age due to the risk of contracting infectious diseases. The objectives of this study were to determine if puppies that attended puppy socialization classes and were vaccinated by a veterinarian at least once were at an increased risk of confirmed canine parvovirus (CPV) infection compared with puppies that did not attend classes... Results indicated that vaccinated puppies attending socialization classes were at no greater risk of CPV infection than vaccinated puppies that did not attend those classes.”

Why you should take your urban puppy to socials after just one set of shots

“While not a perfect analogy, a puppy’s openness to learning socials skills is similar to the way young children learn new languages effortlessly. Studies have shown that children younger than seven years old easily pick up new languages because their brains are wired to readily incorporate the words, grammar and structure of multiple languages. Like the puppy socialization period that ends at 12 weeks, this window closes for children around seven years old, after which language acquisition becomes far more difficult. You can place a 6-year old child in a Mandarin immersion class for a year and she will come out fluent in the language but if I were to attend the same class, I would likely still be struggling with the basics.”

Early Puppy Socialization Classes: Weighing the risks vs. benefits

“Given the fact that behavior problems are the No. 1 cause of relinquishment to shelters, along with the fact that 56% of dogs that enter shelters in the United States are euthanized, and that puppy classes help prevent behavior problems and increase the likelihood of retention in the home, there must be evidence of phenomenal risk of infectious disease transmission associated with early socialization classes to warrant holding puppies back. And there is no such evidence to date. In fact, renowned behaviorist Dr. R. K. Anderson, a longtime advocate for early socialization, has more than a decade of experience and data supporting the relative safety and lack of disease transmission in puppy socialization classes in many parts of the United States.

It's unfortunate that the behavioral gains from puppy class are under such tight age constraints. The most sound advice we [veterinarians] can give clients is to acknowledge the small risk of infectious disease transmission and recommend well-run puppy socialization classes on the grounds that the relative risk is so low. Puppies, owners, and society stand to benefit enormously at the cost of a relatively small risk of exposure to a treatable infection.”

Puppy Vaccinations: Why Puppies Need a Series of Shots

“Our current vaccines are excellent at stimulating immunity in older puppies in just one or two shots. However, puppies who nursed on their mother’s milk have maternal antibodies in their blood that block the immune system from responding to these vaccines. These circulating maternal antibodies protect them from bacterial and viral assault while the puppy’s immune system is maturing. But they also prevent the puppy’s immune system from becoming activated by vaccines.”

Okay, I’m sold. Now how do I do it?

I recommend starting with these articles written by other trainers:

Puppy Socialization… What Actually Is It??

“The definition I like for puppy socialization is “the process of teaching a puppy to live and behave in the situations it will encounter throughout its life.”... All in all, socialization is a very personal process. You are not just shaping your dog to live in the human world, you are shaping him to live in YOUR world. It’s important to me that my dogs are confident and comfortable in sport situations as I do have many competition goals for them, but I live with them too so it’s equally (or more, sometimes) important that they can settle in the house, be polite on a hiking trail, and work as demo or decoy dogs for my clients. What are your goals for your dog, and what type of dog do you want to build?”

Socialization is More Than Mere Exposure - AVSAB

“You should set up social experiences in graded steps that reflect your puppy’s personality and behavior. If you notice that your puppy seems timid or fearful in new situations, you should move more slowly and deliberately in terms of the intensity of exposure than you would if your puppy is always jolly and exuberant. Pay attention to your puppy’s approach versus retreat behavior and other body language indicators.”

Overzealous Greetings (and Other Tales of Toddlers and Puppies)

“responsible dog owners can teach their charges to be polite around other dogs. Socializing your dog appropriately helps him grow into a model citizen of canine society.

So, how do I guide my foster dogs through appropriate interactions? First of all, I focus on teaching them to greet other dogs calmly. If puppies squeal and lunge in excitement every time they see a new dog, they grow into adult dogs who rush up to other dogs or react explosively on leash at the sight of each new dog. This isn’t a healthy social reaction, and preventing this behavior from developing is much easier and faster than fixing it once it’s become a habit.”

Keeping, Raising and Showing Littermates

“One should only keep multiple puppies if they truly have the time to give each puppy what they need in terms of training, medical care, socialization, grooming, etc. If you can’t or if you aren’t sure if you can, you should probably not take on more than one. If you do decide to keep multiple puppies, here are some things to consider and tips that may help you bring them up successfully.”

I also like this PDF from Operation Socialization and this graphic by Sara Reusche and Lili Chin.

Need a cheat sheet? Here are the bullet points.

• Invite people over to your house to play with the pup. Make sure that they wash their hands and haven’t just been petting unknown dogs.

• Take your puppy over to visit other people’s houses. Make sure to bring supplies to clean up potty accidents, just in case.

• Take your puppy out and about in a sling, pack, stroller, or just carrying them to keep them up off the ground. Walk around the neighborhood, shopping areas, and into pet-friendly stores.

  • Most home improvement stores (eg Home Depot, Lowe’s, Ace) welcome dogs. JoAnn is officially pet-friendly in all their locations. Many other stores will allow you to carry in small puppies if you ask.

• Bring your pup on errands in the car. While one person takes care of business, the other can sit with the pup and look out the window, or have the puppy in your lap with the car door open. (See information about puppy carsickness here.)

• Hang out at the park or beach with your pup on a large blanket, using a leash or pen to keep them close by.

• If you want your puppy to be comfortable with particular activities when they’re grown up, starting introducing those things now. For example, start teaching your puppy to swim, or introduce him to livestock, or get started on grooming training.

• Arrange play dates with other friendly, healthy, vaccinated dogs who haven’t recently been to the dog park.

• Attend puppy classes - see below for how to pick a good puppy class.

• Make sure that anyone interacting with your puppy - especially kids - pets gently, plays appropriately, and allows the puppy to move away if they want to. (See resources for kids and dogs here.)

• Make sure that your puppy is having a good time. Things to look for:

  • Wagging tail

  • Happy to explore and sniff around

  • Willingness to play and eat treats

  • Able to respond to trained cues

• If your puppy gets overwhelmed (hiding, tucked tail, sitting very still and not engaging), let him retreat to safety and reassure him. Give him time to recover and be ready to explore again.

• If your puppy is regressing in their socialization, or showing sudden fear toward specific things, they may be in a fear period. Follow the suggestions in this article or consult with a professional trainer who uses positive methods to help you provide desensitization and counter-conditioning.

How to pick a puppy class

Not all training classes are created equal. You want to make sure that:

• The facility is cleaned with appropriate products (such as KennelSol) to reduce possible transmission of pathogens.

• Puppies are required to be up to date on vaccinations per their veterinarian’s advice, and proof is provided to the trainer.

• Only positive training methods are used. (E.g., no collar corrections on choke chains or prong collars, no swatting puppies for mouthing, no grabbing by the scruff or pinning down to punish. Instead, puppies are guided to choose desirable behaviors and rewarded with treats, play, and petting, while undesirable behaviors are prevented or redirected.)

• Puppies that are over-excited - barking, pouncing, pulling on leash - are given help to calm down via decreasing visibility, moving them farther away, providing chews or enrichment items, and/or rewarding appropriate behaviors.

• Playtime is not a “free for all” between all of the puppies. Not all pups can play together nicely - different sizes and levels of energy and confidence can easily lead to bullying if not carefully monitored. Pens and leashes are used to help shier and smaller puppies have a good socialization experience.

• Breaks are given during playtime to help moderate arousal levels and help puppies learn to listen around distractions.

• All of the puppy owners are helping teach manners by giving attention to puppies with “four on the floor,” not allowing them to snatch treats, and breaking up play as needed to redirect inappropriate behavior or provide breaks.